Friday Sips

For 20 years Marcus and I have been friends and since the inception of Matello back in 2002, the Cellar Door has been stalwart supporters. First and foremost, Matello wines are of supreme finesse and detail. Even in a vintage such as 2012, these certainly aren't what we call "smoker-friendly Pinots" which can be better defined as those which are Zinfandel wannabes. The lead-off batter in the Matello line-up goes way beyond entry-level and at 20 bucks is a smoking value.

Stylish red and blackcurrant fruit permeates from the glass and is enhanced by intertwined cinnamon, violet and red earth which flows into a smooth, velvet-laden mouthfilling texture that seduces, then lingers, and calls you back for another glass. An excellent choice for early-term drinking over the next 3-4 years.

Memories always seem to be on the short side when it comes to certain vintages. I remember just a few years ago how no one really was giving 2007 any love. All of a sudden, these wines took form and then everyone was %^&*%ing and moaning about how they couldn't obtain any because they were sold out. What we're saying is to not be remiss on 2011, this vintage is one of the most underrated in recent memory (and will turn out to be even better than 2007) mostly because it is sandwiched by the great 2010 and the massively-hyped 2012s.

Durant Vineyard is a renowned Dundee Hills Vineyard site and has been delivering super grapes since 1973. Matello works with three blocks of solely Pommard clones and this wine is simply ravishing. Alluring and revealing vinous intensity, never becoming ponderous, notes of deep raspberry, lavender, anise, spice and licorice flow into a regal texture backed up with fine grained tannins, elegance and wonderful complexity of flavor. The finish of this wine seemingly stays with you for at least ten minutes after it is tasted. Starting to become elusively beautiful now but can be held for another 8-10 years. Only 100 cases produced!

Marcus has many influences in the wine world and one of his biggest is Cristom winemaker Steve Doerner. Reflecting some of what Steve has shown the wine world, a portion of what Marcus does within his wines includes a portion of non-destemmed fruit. This takes a bit of color away but adds quite a bit of complexity and breadth. Whistling Ridge Vineyard is located in the Ribbon Ridge appellation and is one that Marcus has quite a deft touch with. A mix of clones are utilized (Pommard, Wadenswil & 115) for this particular cuvee.

Prominent scents of violet, plum, underlying strawberry along with kisses of tarragon and wild-spice all unfold to a sultry texture which reveals deceptive depth, structure poise and material. Like any superb Pinot Noir, this wine fans out nicely on the palate, extends, pushes and then pleasantly hangs around. A steal of a top-notch Oregon Pinot Noir, this wine can easily be consumed now, but for greater complexity and character drink it from 2015 – 2022+.

Not only does the Durant Vineyard provide top-drawer Pinot Noir, some very fine Chardonnay also comes from this site. The vines for Matello's version are 20 years old and the wine is the essence of purity and class in Chardonnay. You aren't going to get gobs of sweet fruit and butter that have been obstructed by a lumber-mill, what you do get is something linear, focused, graceful, vibrant and perfect for drinking with your legs under the table.

A keen nose of cereal, orange, lemon and blitzing mineral forms and engages further as it opens. In the mouth its nervosity, depth and detail are damn impressive; the finish long and tingling. Pure and fine enough to go with sophisticated seafood dishes, but deep enough to go with salmon or roasted chicken.