Friday Sips

Bryan sarcastically loves that lately there seems to be excitement from the wine trendoids and fashionistas these days when it comes to Greek wines. Looking back through the Cellar Door Hot Sheet archives, we first started working with this country's wines and recognizing their quality and the revolution that was being presented by young vintners back in 1999, a time when hipster sommeliers were being given a time-out by their parents or grade-school teachers.

Greece is no longer just all about resinous retsina; in fact, there is a thriving wine industry that is being led by a generation who has studied in France, Italy, America and Australia. They are then returning home to make wines that are distinct to what their terroir and native grape varietals have to offer. First up is a take on the native Xinomavro grape from one of the country's great red wine zones, Macedonia's Naoussa region, and done with younger vines and without the use of oak barrels. It's human nature to want to compare things but this is its own beast. If you must, then think of Nebbiolo done in a warmer climate.

Debonair, yet maintaining street credibility, there is an abundance of suaveness and depth here. Earth-spice, plenty of plum, truffle, black olive and violets- all done in a pure and clean style; broad, savory and well integrated, it pairs well with tomatoes, but with the extra levels of depth and fruit, it will also handle some spicy peppers, too.

Want to escape Chardonnay hell and Pinot Gris purgatory? While many of our nation's clergy have gotten themselves into a bit of trouble over the last several years, the Cellar Door's Reverend du Vin is still performing exorcisms to chase away evil wine demons. This week's sermon has us shining the light on the upstart white wines from Greece. It is high time that we all stop thinking of Greek wines solely as the stuff that is one step up from floor polish, retsina, and opening your eyes to some of the delicacies that have been coming from this ancient wine producing country.

From Cephalonia, Gentilini makes this wine from Robola, a grape varietal that firmly has its origins in Greece. The Italians have also staked claim to it, but who can trust the Italians when it comes to matters of time! Anyway, the Robola varietal is taken to lofty heights here by a producer who are unmitigated specialists with this grape. Lovely scents of mineral, orange, lemon, thyme and flint lead into a bone-dry, very crisp mouthful of citrus fruits. The persistence is quite impressive and this wine maintains excellent balance, with good richness and is a natural partner with many kinds of grilled fish, but I even like it all by itself.

Our friend and importer of this wine, Andrea Englisis would probably give me a swift-kick up the arse for calling this wine Bianco, but the fact of the matter is that I haven't got a clue as to what the word for "white" is in Greek! Earlier this week, this white wine brought luminous sunshine and my perpetual crankiness seemed to go away...Now where the hell did we put that purple kiddie-pool!?!?!

This 90% Assyrtiko, 5% Aidani, 5% Athiri blend keeps calling you back for glass after glass. Persistent, cool scents of jasmine, powdery lime, saline and peach bounce from the glass and carry over into an intense, zesty palate. The finish is absolutely luxurious and fresh. Perfect for any patio gathering, but also a perfect choice with calamari or grilled shrimp.

Even though the island of Santorini has made its reputation on its white wines, there are also some extremely delicious red wines that come from the island. Argyros dates back to around 1903, although estate bottling didn't begin here until the late 80s and it's interesting to note that of the major wine growing regions in the world, Santorini's Assyrtiko grape is the only one to have completely escaped phyloxerra. Thus, there are some vines on the island that are said to date back around 300 years!

While this wine isn't from 300 year old vines and white, this full-flavored red is made from a blend of native grapes (90% Mandilaria, 10% Mavrotragano) and combines an aromatic nose of ripe plums, leather and pipe tobacco with a user-friendly palate of assorted spice and peppercorns and a sneaky-deep core of fruit. Possessing a very long finish, this is a fairly boisterous and rotund wine that will truly glow with such hearty red meat entrees as grilled lamb, sausages or beef kabobs.