Hot Sheets


THE CELLAR DOOR'S 'RE-ENTRY' HOTSHEET
Rhone Wines from Bryan's trip, Oregon red & white, Tuscany and a legendary Arneis & more


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2012 DOMAINE BOISSON
COTES-DU-RHONE VILLAGES CAIRANNE
$19.99 BTL./$239.88 CASE

Upon returning from France last night after a not-so-fun travel ordeal (Star Alliance is definitely on my merde list today) and looking through notes and pictures of my visits to the Rhone Valley, I thought it would be most appropriate to feature a few things. One of the terrific producers that I visited was the outstanding Domaine Boisson. In his late 30s, Bruno Boisson is at the helm of this Cairanne-based Domaine that has roots going back to the 19th century.

The 2012 Boisson Cairanne has that extra dimension that sets it apart from many others and is one that I like to refer to as "Cotes-du-Rhone et plus" because it comes from a single village and is a denser wine with more structure and complexity. A blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and 10% Mourvedre sourced from old vines aging up to 110 years old from three different parcels in Cairanne that provide a balance between strength and smoothness. A velvet monster emitting aromas of jammy strawberry, savory earth, tealeaf, Thai spices and black licorice. Texturally, this wine is layered, rich and possesses excellent movement from front to back. Old vine depth is very evident on the lengthy, broad finish that snaps back after the wine is swallowed and pleasantly hangs around. No doubt a 5-7 year ager, but with its flavor impact and smoothness, it can be enjoyed within 5-7 minutes with slow-braised lamb or a simply prepared grilled porterhouse spiked with garlic and coated with black pepper.



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2012 DOMAINE BOISSON
COTES-DU-RHONE VILLAGES
MASSIF D'UCHAUX
$26.99 BTL./$323.88 CASE

Massif D'Uchaux is one of the northernmost stretches of the southern Rhone Valley. Located north of the city of Orange and with high elevation, Domaine Boisson's single site called Clos de la Boussiere is a unique expression because there is no limestone in the soil but sand with an abundance of flint-rock known as silex.

Enhanced by 30% Mourvedre and 10% Carignan to go with the 60% Grenache, this site planted in 1961 by Bruno’s grandfather produces powerful, full-bodied wines that have accessibility early but easily can age a decade or more. 2012 is fabulous in the Rhone and this wine doesn't mess around! Exciting aromas from the moment that it is poured. Mysterious, overflowing blueberry, smoked meat, anise and then with laurel tones arriving as it opens. Packed, layered and finely detailed. Expansive, full spice-laden finish rounds it all out. If consumed now, have it with grilled steak or a slow-roasted pork loin done with Provencal features. If you wait 5 years, break out the mushrooms and slow-braise a leg of lamb.



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2012 DOMAINE LAFOND TAVEL ROSE 'ROC-EPINE'
$19.99 BTL./$239.88 CASE

25 years of visiting the Rhone Valley and 2 weeks ago was the first time I had ever set foot in the village of Tavel as well as to see its vineyards (see photo below). After eating Dorado on top of a bed of risotto, peas and in its own juices with provencal herbs with a half bottle of the 2013 at the Auberge du Tavel before my visit to Domaine Lafond, it came to me that Tavel is actually better after a year in bottle and is definitely a wine for the table.

Pascal Lafond is undoubtedly one of the leaders of this area and is one of the nicest and most passionate and giving producers that I have met. I told him of the fish and his Rose and he called it a vin de repas as well as describing it not as a red, nor a white or rose but as individually Tavel. One of the amazing things about Tavel’s vineyards are that they are a virtual beach of limestone so to offset the big color and intensity; these are also wines of magnificent jaunts of energy. I also experienced the 2014 in a restaurant in Orange with monkfish and while I would prefer it with another year in bottle, it was still very striking. Blazing with raspberry, prominent flint and stony aspects, subtle rosemary and spice, this pink wine has plenty of nervosity and elevation to go with the palate-covering depth. A wine to pair with rich fishes or white meats, particularly prepared a la provencal. Quite delicious now but hold back a bottle or three for another year and see just how good it is next summer!




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2010 FALCHINI PARETAIO ROSSO TOSCANA
$17.99 BTL./$215.88 CASE

A new release of one of our favorite Super Tuscan values from an outstanding Vernaccia di San Gimignano producer! As most of you all know, 2010 is an off the charts vintage for Tuscany and Falchini produces magnificent wines both red and white.

The new 2010 is made from the usual 95% Sangiovese and 5% Merlot and if you’ve loved the 2007, 08 and 09, just wait until you have a go at this one!! Violet, leather, Tuscan spice and sage interact nicely with intermittent smoky oak and form an ensemble of aromas that deliver the best of traditional and modern Tuscany. In the mouth, the texture is savory, ripe and builds depth and structure, especially on the savory and very polished finish. Drink underrated star producer’s magical Tuscan Rosso through 2023+.



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2011 MATELLO WHISTLING RIDGE BLANC
$16.99 BTL./$203.88 CASE

Inspired by the vineyard-designated blends of Alsace, Marcus Goodfellow has put forth something very special. Made with traditional grapes seen both in Alsace and here in Oregon, the desire to allow Whistling Ridge Vineyard to speak and transcending the varietals is mightily accomplished in this bottle. When Marcus first released this in 2012, he thought the wine was too tightly wound and pulled it from the market and held on to it and re-released it AFTER his 2012 and 2013. This proved to be an excellent move!!

Virtually glistening aromas of honeysuckle, apple, lemon, tinges of exotic spice and most importantly, a real rocky minerality that comes from the non-irrigated vines taking a vow of poverty and having to go deep to find the basalt rock and where the moisture lies within this vineyard's soils. Intense depth, dry, racy and radiant with loads of personality and structure in the mouth; long, mouth-watering and extensively complex on the finish. Given this wine's backbone, my gut tells me that this wine will also age very well. Drink it over the next decade and probably beyond. A mere 84 cases of this wine were produced for 2011.



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2012 LAVRADORES DE FEITORIA DUORO TINTO
$9.99 BTL./$119.88 CASE

When it comes to value-oriented red wines, Portugal seemingly is a thrift store of goodness. For 2+ years, this producer’s wines from the Douro region have been go-to selections for 10 bucks.

The red is blended with 20% Touriga Nacional, 30% Touriga Franca, 20% Tinta Barroca, 25% Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo) and 5% of other local varietals. Flavorful and enticing with cinnamon laced cherry, dark chocolate and roasted earth. Mouth filling with Eastern spices and licorice elements all in beautiful harmony. Have this well-made juice with marinated beef dishes with lots of garlic and spices, or paella.



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2013 BRUNO GIACOSA ROERO ARNEIS
$26.99 BTL./$323.88 CASE

The name Giacosa is synonymous when it comes to Barbaresco but it is also equally as important when it comes to Arneis. In the 1960s, along with Alfredo Currado from Vietti, Bruno Giacosa is responsible and the inspiration for what we taste in today’s vision of Arneis.

One of the definitive benchmarks of the region, it is a spendy version that is well worth the cost. The new 2013 is quite mineral-driven, ripe and stunningly balanced with an underlay of blood orange, lemongrass, and starfruit on the nose. In the mouth it is dazzling, dry and brisk, but with no shortage of depth and flavor. A fantastic white for simply prepared cracked crab or other seafood dishes, especially seared tuna in an Asian prep or fried calamari although if one really wanted to indulge some hedonistic fantasy, it could make for an expensive deck wine because it is so easy to drink on its own.



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2012 VISTA HILLS PINOT NOIR 'TREEHOUSE'
DUNDEE HILLS
$19.99 BTL./$239.88 CASE

Located in the Dundee Hills and in close proximity to Domaine Drouhin and Domaine Serene, Vista Hills happens to make delightful wines in a range of levels and price points. The Treehouse is one of the flagship wines of the estate and the 2012 is very appealing for 20 bucks.

Classy and uplifting notes of red fruit dominate this Pinot. Beautifully caressed by subtle smoke, a potpourri of dried flowers and maple are all presented in fine balance with fine-grained tannins and a sultry finish. All in all this is a well-focused, classic Oregon Pinot Noir that is very accessible now and will drink beautifully over the next several years.



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