Friday Sips

An exciting producer who specializes in Morgon and Brouilly, Joel and Mathieu Rochette follow true to their beliefs that impeccable farming, hand harvesting and top grapes make superior wines. Their Brouilly is located in the superb sub-division of Pisse-Vieille. The name of the area comes from a local legend that's quite juicy when it's told in dialect. The following is its rough translation:

About an old woman who at confession misunderstood the priest's advice, she thought the priest said "don't piss anymore old woman" instead of what he told her which was "don't sin anymore old woman". After a week of suffering she returned to her confessor who cried out, "you got it all wrong ‘pisse vieille' (a play on words between piss, old lady and you silly old bat)"….so she relieved herself there and in the place that now bears this quaint name!!

2010 is the 2nd in a trilogy of outstanding Beaujolais vintages and all amusing stories aside, Pisse-Vielle is in the northernmost sector of Brouilly and what makes it so special is the virtual red granitic soil known locally as "rosbif". One of the most masculine Brouilly wines that you will ever come across. Intensely aromatic red berry, blackberry, wet stone and spiced earth scream from the glass. It is well-structured and full of spine and extension. Unlike the majority of what’s grown in the Brouilly appellation, this is not only delightful and likable, it will also develop nicely for 5-6 years, too.

A remarkable and ageworthy Morgon, the 2010 Côte-de-Pÿ is all from steep slope with schist soils and 70 year old vines. Monumental aromas that have pronounced minerality, perfume, violet, and raspberry sing from the glass. Very exquisite, this is virtual Grand Cru Beaujolais with generosity and richness all while maintaining its poised and debonair traits. Layered and old-viney, but never becoming thick or over the top, it finishes with lovely pomegranate and spiciness on the coating, detailed finish. This wine is glorious with a plethora of cuisines, however, we encourage you to cellar some due to its tendency to become pinote, as they say in Beaujolais, after 4-5 years. Drink over the next 10+ years with sausage & lentils, hearty mushroom dishes or a classic roasted chicken.

One of the northernmost villages of the Beaujolais region, the Cru vineyards and village of Julienas are named after Julius Caesar. Julienas growers state that their region was the first in Beaujolais to be planted for wine by the Romans in their conquest of Gaul, however one of the southernmost villages of Beaujolais, called Regnié, argues that they were the first. Gotta love those rascally French!

Maison Trénel is a fine negociant who utilizes old Gamay fruit that's been farmed solely by the Sangouard family for them. Julienas is always one of the soulful Cru of Beaujolais, often providing a cross between heartiness and finesse. Trénel's 2010 follows this trend. Luminous violet and rose aromas combine with wild cherry, cinnamon and stoniness enliven the olfactory senses. In the mouth it's forward, terroir laden while striking a nice balance between fruit and mineral on the vivid and extensive finish. This is shimmering Beaujolais and quite versatile with food. Enjoy over the next 3-5 years with roasted chicken, mushroom pasta or just a super-fine aged Gruyere cheese.