Hot Sheets

Earlier this year on my visit to France I had a chance to visit this Domaine which is also known as Domaine Laventureaux. Located in the village of Lignorelles in the northern portion of Chablis, this estate, founded in 1979 and with higher elevation than around the village of the Chablis, is prime terroir for Petit Chablis. The Lavantureux family excels in this category. The difference between Petit Chablis and Chablis isn't its size but its soil, Petit Chablis is grown in Portlandian soil versus Kimmeridgian.

Lucien Beau, named after young brothers David & Arnaud Laventureaux's uncle, is a terrific new addition to our 20-buck white Burgundy lineup. Pure as hell, this is Petit Chablis with stunning depth and detail. Perfumed flint, floral and with stylish underlying fruit. Excellent palate coverage is present in the mouth and deftly balances richness with brisk minerality. More stony aspects arrive as it opens and follows into a finish with persistence and character. Very likable and easy to latch on to. Quite a step up from many in this category, enjoy this white with oysters, mussels and especially fresh crab.

A new evolution is occurring at Matello and one that is very exciting. Recently, Matello owner/winemaker Marcus Goodfellow decided to take the wines based on tradition and site and move them out of Matello and into a new label, Goodfellow Family Cellars. The wines themselves have not changed in style, and Matello isn't going anywhere. The wines with less boundaries will remain at Matello and those based on classic styles and varietals will now live under Goodfellow Family Cellars and what an excellent way to kick them off with the 2012 vintage!

Whistling Ridge Vineyard is located in the Ribbon Ridge region of the Willamette Valley and delivers some of the most underrated Pinots within this small growing area. Very Burgundian in style is the hallmark of this site and Marcus has been allowing this vineyard to speak vociferously with his most non-interventionist methods. 2012 brought stunning raw material to this wine. Packed and loaded with savory spices along with high-toned strawberry but given the warmth of the year, bits of blackberry chime in. Plenty of palate-seducing qualities this Pinot possesses excellent depth, significant lift and a finish that is stylish and never-ending. I recommend cellaring the Whistling Ridge for another year and then enjoying over the next decade.

Yamhill-Carlton District-based, Goodfellow's Bishop Creek is the darkest and broadest of the line-up. Chewy, and fleshy black plum, obvious forward fruit, nice elevated acidity comes out. Never over-oaked and still maintaining its Pinot presence, this wine has a bit more imminent appeal yet will still age nicely. Drink this one through 2022.

Durant is one of the crown-jewel vineyards in the Dundee Hills and is one that has no shortage of old vines. The 2012 Goodfellow is a knockout but is also the most tightly wound of the three. Compact aromas of lavender, pepper, violet, rose, cherry and underlying herbs show nicely on the nose, however, don't be fooled, these need a little bit of time to really unlock themselves. In the mouth the vinous aspects of the older vines shines through, although at this current moment, everything is wrapped snugly in a ball. Creamy, layered and chock full of character this will undoubtedly unfold into something very special in time. Hold this until 2017 and drink along with watching its development through 2027.

Better known as a Vernaccia di San Gimignano producer, this exuberant 20-year-old estate also makes a stellar Chianti as well done with only the classic Italian varietals, meaning no Cabernet, Merlot or Syrah.

Bing cherry, rich earthy tones, violet, roasted sage and spice dominate this classy Tuscan red. Fresh and mouth tickling with chewy red fruit flavors following into the mouth and leaving your palate cleansed but satisfied. Enjoy with aged Italian cheeses, traditional red/meat sauces for pasta such as Bolognese with sharp Parmigiano shaved on top. Drink this everyday gem over the next 3-4 years.

The small family Domaine of Champagne Colin has been farming in Vertus since 1829. Led by brothers Richard (vineyards) and Romain (winemaker) and Richard's wife Delphine (sales & export), only 7,500-8,000 cases are produced from their 26 acres of vines.

The Cuvee Alliance is house specialty, being 35% of the production. 70% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Meunier from 2 vineyards, one in Vertus, the other in the Cote-de-Sezanne. Lovely aromas reveal the classy personality that this family puts forth not only in their wines but also in their demeanor. Excellent "pearly" perfume. Wheat pastry, yellow apple, very flattering and arms-open with its richness and friendliness. Ample cut and minerality from the Chardonnay, prominent length and sophistication, one really sees the attention to detail on this excellent gateway into Champagne Colin.

The Colin family's top wine is their prime-time Grand Cru cuvee and the production is a mere 400-700 cases. From two Grand Cru villages, 60% coming from the village of Cramant and 40% coming from Oiry, the vines for this fizz are 50+ years old and pruned in the same manner as those in Chablis.

No malolactic fermentation provides furious energy but the finer way to describe this is being powerful and poised. Smoke and flint aspects lurk beneath floral, citrus aspects with touches of honey and brioche arriving as the Champagne unfolds in the glass. Excellent dimension, ample middle and with classy minerality throughout. Ample bursting Chardonnay fruit gives way to white chocolate and biscuit on the snuggly fit, electric finish. This is really profound bubbly that is a remarkable value!