Hot Sheets
THE CELLAR DOOR'S "DROPPIN' A DEUCE" HOTSHEET
6 pairs of wines. Montalcino, Fleurie, Malbec, Sauternes, California Blends and Bubbly Cider & more
MARIETTA "ARME" RED LOT #1
$21.99 BTL./$263.88 CASE
$21.99 BTL./$263.88 CASE
Much has happened at long-time Sonoma value producer Marietta over the last three years. In 2012, Chris Bilbro sold the operation to his two sons Jake and Scot and immediately the brothers pounced on the success of their Old Vine cuvee and discontinued varietal-labeled wines in lieu of two different slightly higher end blends labeled by lot number.
Arme is the brother Bordeaux grape blend and is comprised of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot, 4% Malbec and 2% Petit Verdot from Sonoma and Mendocino Counties. Don't be fooled by this wines humble name, this is serious juice, evocative enough to play with many that are two and three times its price. Cassis, cedar, dusty earth, well-integrated spicy oak and kisses of peppermint tones follow through to a sumptuous texture that is concentrated and well balanced. Builds nice vibrancy and texture on the finish that extends beautifully. This prodigal, full-flavored value drinks exquisitely now and will continue to do so for another decade. If you like numbers, it also has 91 points from The Wine Advocate.
Arme is the brother Bordeaux grape blend and is comprised of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot, 4% Malbec and 2% Petit Verdot from Sonoma and Mendocino Counties. Don't be fooled by this wines humble name, this is serious juice, evocative enough to play with many that are two and three times its price. Cassis, cedar, dusty earth, well-integrated spicy oak and kisses of peppermint tones follow through to a sumptuous texture that is concentrated and well balanced. Builds nice vibrancy and texture on the finish that extends beautifully. This prodigal, full-flavored value drinks exquisitely now and will continue to do so for another decade. If you like numbers, it also has 91 points from The Wine Advocate.
MARIETTA "CHRISTO" LOT #2
$19.99 BTL./$239.88 CASE
$19.99 BTL./$239.88 CASE
Christo, named after what family Patriarch Chris Bilbro's aunt Marietta called him when he was a boy, is the new Rhone-inspired blend from Marietta and is a hell of a replacement for the single varietal wines that were once made from many of these grapes. Lot #2 is a full-throttle, unabashedly California blend of 60% Syrah, 28% Petite Sirah, 10% Grenache & 2% Viognier that possesses both swagger and flavor.
Like the Arme, this wine also comes from Sonoma and Mendocino fruit and reveals hallmark scents of saturated black fruit and olive, combined with iron, black licorice and smoked meat leading into a full, billowy texture that maintains lovely freshness from vibrancy from red berry aspects that arrive in the mid-palate. Yes, this is an erupting California red but it retains class and freshness with vivid red fruit tones that deliver additional complexity and thrust that drives home on the impressively long finish. Drink for another 6-8 years.
Like the Arme, this wine also comes from Sonoma and Mendocino fruit and reveals hallmark scents of saturated black fruit and olive, combined with iron, black licorice and smoked meat leading into a full, billowy texture that maintains lovely freshness from vibrancy from red berry aspects that arrive in the mid-palate. Yes, this is an erupting California red but it retains class and freshness with vivid red fruit tones that deliver additional complexity and thrust that drives home on the impressively long finish. Drink for another 6-8 years.
2008 CAPRILI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO
$39.99 BTL./$479.88 CASE
$39.99 BTL./$479.88 CASE
We are very fortunate here in Portland to have these wines come in on a direct relationship basis. Not only are they an outstanding Montalcino producer, they are a steal at their price points. Founded in 1965, Caprili sits in the "Murderer's Row" of Montalcino next to two of the region's most expensive and finest producers, Soldera & Gaja. When Giacomo Bartolommei visited last year and presented a preview of his family's 2008, he was genuinely excited and thought that the wine was even more superior to the more hyped 2007. After tasting, I had to agree, it did not disappoint!
The 2008 while lavish and chock full of stunning red berry fruit, roasted sage, violet and rich earth notes, also maintains a beautiful note of purity and Montalcino detail. Once this wine hits the mouth, with a core of ripe cherry, Tuscan roasted herbs and fine tannins that are both ripe and add a beautiful frame to the fine fruit and overall savory character of this Tuscan delight. As always is the case with good Brunello, the 2008 is a wine that is meant to be consumed with food, especially roasted meat dishes, pasta with sage and butter preparations and it would make a mushroom dish sing. A common saying around here is that our favorite Chianti is Brunello and with Brunello, cellaring is always recommended. Drink 2017 – 2025+.
The 2008 while lavish and chock full of stunning red berry fruit, roasted sage, violet and rich earth notes, also maintains a beautiful note of purity and Montalcino detail. Once this wine hits the mouth, with a core of ripe cherry, Tuscan roasted herbs and fine tannins that are both ripe and add a beautiful frame to the fine fruit and overall savory character of this Tuscan delight. As always is the case with good Brunello, the 2008 is a wine that is meant to be consumed with food, especially roasted meat dishes, pasta with sage and butter preparations and it would make a mushroom dish sing. A common saying around here is that our favorite Chianti is Brunello and with Brunello, cellaring is always recommended. Drink 2017 – 2025+.
2012 CAPRILI ROSSO DI MONTALCINO
$19.99 BTL./$239.88 CASE
$19.99 BTL./$239.88 CASE
Rosso di Montalcino at Caprili is designed to be the baby brother of the Brunello and is a Sangiovese from Montalcino that is meant to drink while waiting for the Brunello to age properly or to uncork on a weeknight when enjoying a nicely prepared meal.
A delightful expression of Montalcino terroir and character, this attractively put-together red offers violet, blackberry and Christmas spices that waft from the glass and carry over to the very genuine texture. Subtle structure is present, but Caprili's smoothness rules the day and makes it an extremely pleasurable and rather upscale drink early on. Enjoy it over the next 3-4 years with a plethora of dishes ranging from a simple penne with marinara to a grilled t-bone steak.
A delightful expression of Montalcino terroir and character, this attractively put-together red offers violet, blackberry and Christmas spices that waft from the glass and carry over to the very genuine texture. Subtle structure is present, but Caprili's smoothness rules the day and makes it an extremely pleasurable and rather upscale drink early on. Enjoy it over the next 3-4 years with a plethora of dishes ranging from a simple penne with marinara to a grilled t-bone steak.
2013 CLOS DE LA ROILETTE FLEURIE "CUVEE TARDIVE"
$26.99 – 750 ML BTL./$323.88 CASE – limited
$54.99 – MAGNUM (4 mags available)
$26.99 – 750 ML BTL./$323.88 CASE – limited
$54.99 – MAGNUM (4 mags available)
Clos de la Roilette butts up against Moulin-a-Vent, and when boundaries were established in the 1920s, the landowner at the time was absolutely infuriated. In response, he put a picture of his racehorse, Roilette, on the label. In addition, the wine's site, Clos de la Roilette more prominently on the label instead of the appellation name, Fleurie. This remains the same today even under the present owner, Alain Coudert.
We are undoubtedly excited for the 2013 wines from the Beaujolais region of France. The best producers delivered wines from microscopic yields that have insane intensity, but also possess all of the beautiful freshness and vibrancy that one expects from Beaujolais. Fleurie is often noted as the Queen of Beaujolais with its feminine and sleek qualities. Clos de la Roilette is a different breed and we like to refer to it as the cross-dresser of Fleurie as it takes on many of the more masculine qualities of its neighbor, Moulin-A-Vent. Cuvee Tardive is not named after a harvest time period. Rather it refers to the parcel of ancient vines (80-90 years old). From manganese soils, this wine has a Pittsburgh attitude about it. All about minerality this broad-shouldered offering is chock full of molten steel, peat, tightly packed raspberry, graham-spice. Creamy and with layers of distinction, but around the edges there is plenty of sinister backbone. The old vines here lead to loads of deep vinous qualities without being heavy or overripe. All in the back of the mouth today, we recommend sitting on this one for a year or two before drinking it over the next 10-12. If you must drink one, do decant and have it with a roasted chicken jacked with morels. Also, this has 93 points from the conservative-scoring Vinous Media.
We are undoubtedly excited for the 2013 wines from the Beaujolais region of France. The best producers delivered wines from microscopic yields that have insane intensity, but also possess all of the beautiful freshness and vibrancy that one expects from Beaujolais. Fleurie is often noted as the Queen of Beaujolais with its feminine and sleek qualities. Clos de la Roilette is a different breed and we like to refer to it as the cross-dresser of Fleurie as it takes on many of the more masculine qualities of its neighbor, Moulin-A-Vent. Cuvee Tardive is not named after a harvest time period. Rather it refers to the parcel of ancient vines (80-90 years old). From manganese soils, this wine has a Pittsburgh attitude about it. All about minerality this broad-shouldered offering is chock full of molten steel, peat, tightly packed raspberry, graham-spice. Creamy and with layers of distinction, but around the edges there is plenty of sinister backbone. The old vines here lead to loads of deep vinous qualities without being heavy or overripe. All in the back of the mouth today, we recommend sitting on this one for a year or two before drinking it over the next 10-12. If you must drink one, do decant and have it with a roasted chicken jacked with morels. Also, this has 93 points from the conservative-scoring Vinous Media.
2013 CLOS DE LA ROILETTE FLEURIE
$19.99 BTL./$239.88 CASE
$19.99 BTL./$239.88 CASE
Alain Coudert's classic Fleurie is the true flagship of the estate and is always one of the obscene values in all of Beaujolais. There are often other Fleurie at higher prices but they rarely can touch the quality and dimension that this entry offering delivers. From 30-40 year old vines and exuding top-drawer aromatics, this 100% Gamay is an ultra-vivid dream to both smell and drink. Brilliantly detailed aromas of peonies, strawberries, cinnamon and smoked earth aromas follow through to a texture that is bursting, invigorating and exuberant with plenty of depth, personality and length. No problem to drink numerous bottles and no problem to age for another 4-6 years.
2012 ZORZAL MALBEC "GRAN TERROIR"
$22.99 BTL./$275.88 CASE
$22.99 BTL./$275.88 CASE
Last month we featured new wines from famed Argentine producer Altos las Hormigas and the burgeoning movement of breaking the stereotype of what Malbec from this country. Early last week I met with the importer of these wines as well as several other estates and the bar is even higher on this nation's focus on elevation and sense of place rather than what the previous discussion had long been - elevation and manipulation!
Zorzal is located at 4500 feet in the sub region of the Uco Valley called Gualtallary just outside of Tupungato. Being at this elevation, Zorzal is the highest winery in all of Mendoza. The high portion of chalk in the soil combined with the elevation gives this killer Malbec an insane amount of energy. Aged 12-18 months in 2-3 year old French barrels, this wine never departs from its origins. Handsome with an abundance of raspberry, pekoe, chocolate, fig and red earth aromas that keep coming on as the wine unfolds in the glass. In the mouth, it has voluptuousness buffered by cool, zesty tones along with a vertical backbone and a very vinous, broad and seductive finish that soars. Drink this very real Malbec over the next 8-10 years.
Zorzal is located at 4500 feet in the sub region of the Uco Valley called Gualtallary just outside of Tupungato. Being at this elevation, Zorzal is the highest winery in all of Mendoza. The high portion of chalk in the soil combined with the elevation gives this killer Malbec an insane amount of energy. Aged 12-18 months in 2-3 year old French barrels, this wine never departs from its origins. Handsome with an abundance of raspberry, pekoe, chocolate, fig and red earth aromas that keep coming on as the wine unfolds in the glass. In the mouth, it has voluptuousness buffered by cool, zesty tones along with a vertical backbone and a very vinous, broad and seductive finish that soars. Drink this very real Malbec over the next 8-10 years.
2013 ZORZAL MALBEC "TERROIR UNICO"
$13.99 BTL./$167.88 CASE
$13.99 BTL./$167.88 CASE
Terroir Unico is the Michelini Brothers entry level offering line. Whereas the Gran Terroir is a 2000 case production, 20,000 cases of this workhorse are made. This number may seem like a bunch but in reality when compared to many others, this is quite small. Terroir Unico shows a bit more sand in the soil given its flamboyant aromatics. No oak is utilized so it is permitted to strut its true Malbec qualities as well as its regional soil structures. Blackberry and plum-pit qualities surround secondary scents of licorice and coffee all which carry into a mouth filling texture that never gets ponderous or burdensome. A perfect wine to drink by the case, it will pair nicely with sautéed pork chops or even a good Bolognese sauce.
ERIC BORDELET POIRE AUTHENTIQUE
$17.99 BTL./$215.88 CASE
$17.99 BTL./$215.88 CASE
A sommelier by training, in 1992 Eric Bordelet took over his family's estate and orchards in Normandy. At the time, his goal was to revolutionize the cider industry and bring it into restaurants, high-end retail and export markets. He has already accomplished his mission; they are in about many of France's top restaurants and are now exported throughout the world. A close friend of his, the late Didier Dagueneau of Pouilly-Fume, encouraged him down the path of producing ciders from apples and pears that are like no others; these ciders make the drinker draw comparisons to fine vintage wine or Champagne. The core of Bordelet's estate are the 4 acres of antique varietal apple and pear trees that are 40-50 years old. He plants only true varietal (non-hybrid, non-cross) trees, and the trees are balanced between sweet, bitter and sour varieties. Currently, he has 20 varieties of apples and 14 varieties of pears planted. The orchards are farmed organically and biodynamically, and Eric believes that this is the regimen, which produces the best fruit for ciders.
Poire Authentique is the horse that pulls the cart in the Bordelet line-up. Ungodly yummy, it tastes wonderfully full of pear, but also has some honey, apple, and white grape juice aspects in there too. More dry than sweet, very fizzy and soft and sparkly on the palate. Finishes a bit on the dry side and full of pear. Very drinkable, in fact, if we had a bottle while we were writing this, we'd be about to pour another glass, especially since it is a mere 4% alcohol.
Poire Authentique is the horse that pulls the cart in the Bordelet line-up. Ungodly yummy, it tastes wonderfully full of pear, but also has some honey, apple, and white grape juice aspects in there too. More dry than sweet, very fizzy and soft and sparkly on the palate. Finishes a bit on the dry side and full of pear. Very drinkable, in fact, if we had a bottle while we were writing this, we'd be about to pour another glass, especially since it is a mere 4% alcohol.
ERIC BORDELET SYDRE TENDRE (Apple)
$13.99 BTL./$167.88 CASE
$13.99 BTL./$167.88 CASE
Sparkling apple cider is the other specialty here and the Tendre is explosively aromatic and has serious BPH (bottles per hour) factor! Off-dry would be the appropriate description for this beauty. There is just enough residual sugar to round out the cider on the palate to make this a remarkable drink for aperitifs or light meals. Sausage would be ideal!
2009 CASTELNAU DE SUDUIRAUT SAUTERNES
$39.99 – FULL BOTTLE
$21.99 – HALF BOTTLE
$39.99 – FULL BOTTLE
$21.99 – HALF BOTTLE
Castelnau de Suduiraut is the great Château Suduiraut's second wine and absolutely offers up ravishing value and while not the big wine, gives quite an amazing experience without being north of $100. The grand vin also scored 98 points from The Wine Advocate and deservedly so, however, one can assume that given the greatness of the 2009 vintage and Suduiraut's severely strict selection, that there is some amazing botrytisized fruit is in this cuvée.
2009 across the board in Sauternes is frighteningly great and this First Growth Château, who has an amazing record of accomplishment, has produced some of their finest wines that will be included in the realm of such legendary years like 2001, 1989, 1967 and 1959. Full-flavored and youthful and difficult to believe that this is a second wine! Rich and full-throttle with deep, shiny orange and apricot aromas that stand up in the glass. Hints of trademark Sauternes honey start to shine. In the mouth, it is unctuous, sweet and rich, but with graceful acidity to allow it to age impeccably. At $40 for a full bottle & $22 bucks for a split, this is a steal! Drink this grand dessert wine over the next 8-12 years.
2009 across the board in Sauternes is frighteningly great and this First Growth Château, who has an amazing record of accomplishment, has produced some of their finest wines that will be included in the realm of such legendary years like 2001, 1989, 1967 and 1959. Full-flavored and youthful and difficult to believe that this is a second wine! Rich and full-throttle with deep, shiny orange and apricot aromas that stand up in the glass. Hints of trademark Sauternes honey start to shine. In the mouth, it is unctuous, sweet and rich, but with graceful acidity to allow it to age impeccably. At $40 for a full bottle & $22 bucks for a split, this is a steal! Drink this grand dessert wine over the next 8-12 years.
2002 CHATEAU SUDUIRAUT SAUTERNES FIRST GROWTH
$89.99 BTL
$89.99 BTL
There is something very special about drinking old Sauternes, especially when it comes from a tantalizing, first-growth producer like Suduiraut! This is not the Castelnau, this is the big wine and a great value coming from a shadow vintage. 2002 for Sauternes is very good but when released, was initially overlooked. At age 12, this sweet nectar is really starting to hit its stride.
Amber/golden in color, the nose is forward and expressive with notes of honey, quince, almonds and apricot. In the mouth, the wine is rich, with the essence of apricots, pineapples, and other tropical fruits. Enhanced by minerally acidity and crispness this underrated, dense, sweet wine possesses terrific definition and clarity all the way to the finish that is honeyed and everlasting. This beautifully made, perfectly drinking Sauternes is well balanced with just the right amount of power. Drinking well now and will continue through 2022 and probably beyond.
Amber/golden in color, the nose is forward and expressive with notes of honey, quince, almonds and apricot. In the mouth, the wine is rich, with the essence of apricots, pineapples, and other tropical fruits. Enhanced by minerally acidity and crispness this underrated, dense, sweet wine possesses terrific definition and clarity all the way to the finish that is honeyed and everlasting. This beautifully made, perfectly drinking Sauternes is well balanced with just the right amount of power. Drinking well now and will continue through 2022 and probably beyond.
