Hot Sheets
THE CELLAR DOOR'S 'FRED UNDERWOOD' HOTSHEET
Barbaresco Value, Rare Graillot Crozes-Hermitage, Three Impressive White wines, Under-15 values
After declining in popularity, lately it seems as though Merlot is trending upward. Before its demise from a worthless film, Washington’s Merlot wines had nice popularity. In many cases, quality has never waned and the resurgence has been nice to see. Seven Hills is a long time Walla Walla player and their Merlot and Merlot-based wines have always been outstanding.
Vintage 2018 is on form and is exactly what should be expected in good Walla Walla Merlot. Yes, this is all fruit from Walla Walla and all for 20-bucks. Cherry/chocolate aromas along with cinnamon, clove and touches of peppery notes follow into a texture that has significant depth but also the significant smoothness and high-toned finish that is what makes these wines so attractive. Enjoy over the next 6-8 years.
Vintage 2018 is on form and is exactly what should be expected in good Walla Walla Merlot. Yes, this is all fruit from Walla Walla and all for 20-bucks. Cherry/chocolate aromas along with cinnamon, clove and touches of peppery notes follow into a texture that has significant depth but also the significant smoothness and high-toned finish that is what makes these wines so attractive. Enjoy over the next 6-8 years.
Nothing says fun like a liter of tasty Austrian Gruner Veltliner. A partnership between Restaurant Le Bernardin Chief Sommelier Aldo Sohm and Austrian wine royalty Gerhard Kracher, son of the late Alois Kracher, this wine from the Niederosterreich region of Burgenland is full of blitzing personality.
At 12% alcohol there is no shortage of burst and character to this bone-dry, teeth-rattling white wine. Energized aromas of lemon and mandarin play off prominent wet-stone, flint and underlying floral aspects. Ample spine and flavor, this is perfect with baked fish dishes and especially Asian cuisine.
At 12% alcohol there is no shortage of burst and character to this bone-dry, teeth-rattling white wine. Energized aromas of lemon and mandarin play off prominent wet-stone, flint and underlying floral aspects. Ample spine and flavor, this is perfect with baked fish dishes and especially Asian cuisine.
Located at the southern end of the boundary of Barbaresco village and bordering on Treiso, this terrific Barbaresco producer takes its name from the single Cru vineyard of Montaribaldi. Having been in existence since 1968 and owned by the Taliano family, the wines that emerge from this estate are outstanding values including this superbly priced selection. This is not merely a glorified Nebbiolo Langhe with Barbaresco slapped on to the label, it is a true to form version that comes from a single vineyard from the village of Nieve.
Roses, tar, subtle spice and earth tones dominate the nose of this sultry offering. Chewy, expressive red fruits assert themselves in the mouth with a hint of a cherry syrup/licorice thing going on. Noticeable structure and excellent definition that tightens its grip at the end. Overall, this shows way above average length, depth and penetration for its price point and although youthful, a Nebbiolo fiend can open one to see where it is, but for the best results cellar it until later next year and drink it through 2027.
Roses, tar, subtle spice and earth tones dominate the nose of this sultry offering. Chewy, expressive red fruits assert themselves in the mouth with a hint of a cherry syrup/licorice thing going on. Noticeable structure and excellent definition that tightens its grip at the end. Overall, this shows way above average length, depth and penetration for its price point and although youthful, a Nebbiolo fiend can open one to see where it is, but for the best results cellar it until later next year and drink it through 2027.
I have to admit that I can’t necessarily be impartial toward this white wine. It has been one of the most spellbinding white wines I’ve tasted in 2021. Located just south of the city of Pau in the foothills of the Pyrenees Mountains, Jurancon is a historic growing region and one that is known for bone dry white wines, sweet dessert wines and others at several points in between. This week we are focusing on a dry version that comes from one of the area’s rock stars and one that we haven’t featured in about 15 years due to limited availability.This fabulous entry white wine is made from 70% Gros Manseng and 30% Petite Corbu, grapes favored in SW France, and grown in sandy, silty soils along with puddingstones at steep 350-meter slopes.
Mineral, anise, passionfruit and citrus peel aromas play off soft earth and spice to carry over into flavors that can best be described as palate grabbing! Mouth filling with lots of invigorating zest that conjures up nuances of fresh mandarins, pear and subtle spice. A dry white that plays well with seafood and salty flavors. Proscuitto or Jamon Serrano, scallops in butter/white wine, prawns in a lemon-lime marinade, sole in a light cream sauce. For cheese, this wine rocks with goat cheese or sheeps cheeses from the Pyrenees. It is also a wonderful match with Thanksgiving turkey.
Mineral, anise, passionfruit and citrus peel aromas play off soft earth and spice to carry over into flavors that can best be described as palate grabbing! Mouth filling with lots of invigorating zest that conjures up nuances of fresh mandarins, pear and subtle spice. A dry white that plays well with seafood and salty flavors. Proscuitto or Jamon Serrano, scallops in butter/white wine, prawns in a lemon-lime marinade, sole in a light cream sauce. For cheese, this wine rocks with goat cheese or sheeps cheeses from the Pyrenees. It is also a wonderful match with Thanksgiving turkey.
Greece is no longer just all about resinous retsina; in fact, there is a thriving wine industry led by growers who are proudly producing wines that are distinct to what their terroir and native grape varietals have to offer. Yiannis Boutaris is one of the most important figures in the Greek wine industry. Having worked for the large Boutari estate and heading up their vineyard management and winemaking, this guy was way ahead of his time with his accomplishments in the 80s. Eager to scale back and work on an artisan level at his own estate, Yiannis departed Boutari with a plethora of experience that he has seemingly shared with an entire winemaking nation.
Located in the Naoussa region of Macedonia and made from 100% of the native Xinomavro grape, this hearty red wine has some aspects that one might find if Nebbiolo were grown in a warm climate. It is human nature to want to compare, but let's face it, this wine is fully its own beast and possesses amazing character and can age nicely, too. Full-flavored, complex and jacked with truffle, coffee, black olive and high-toned red fruits, it is robust, structured and mouth filling and not a cocktail kind of red wine, instead it cries out for protein. Have it with a roasted leg of lamb spiked with lots of garlic. Drink through 2027.
Located in the Naoussa region of Macedonia and made from 100% of the native Xinomavro grape, this hearty red wine has some aspects that one might find if Nebbiolo were grown in a warm climate. It is human nature to want to compare, but let's face it, this wine is fully its own beast and possesses amazing character and can age nicely, too. Full-flavored, complex and jacked with truffle, coffee, black olive and high-toned red fruits, it is robust, structured and mouth filling and not a cocktail kind of red wine, instead it cries out for protein. Have it with a roasted leg of lamb spiked with lots of garlic. Drink through 2027.
From just south of Piacenza and almost at the border of Lombardy, this is one of Italy’s most recent DOC upgrades as it was separated from the Colli Piacentini region with tighter regulations. This blend of 60% Barbera and 40% Bonarda makes for the perfect winter weeknight tipple.
Lively scents of blue fruits, violet and pepper. Tangy, generous and a real spice box with the Bonarda revealing its exuberance on the quite complex finish. A real winner for pulled pork and more. At 12-bucks, drink now and drink lots. This is going to be my go-to lasagna wine as my notes simply said, what’s not to like about this wine?!
Lively scents of blue fruits, violet and pepper. Tangy, generous and a real spice box with the Bonarda revealing its exuberance on the quite complex finish. A real winner for pulled pork and more. At 12-bucks, drink now and drink lots. This is going to be my go-to lasagna wine as my notes simply said, what’s not to like about this wine?!
Owned and made by Byron Dooley, who also makes wines under his Seven of Hearts label, Luminous Hills is the estate site located in Yamhill Carlton. Both volcanic and sedimentary soils make up the vineyard and while three other selections are produced, the meticulously selected Silver Label represents the overall snapshot and profile of the site.
The 2019 is a superb and classy version of this wine, which is a longtime Cellar Door stalwart. Lofty scents of raspberry fruit combine with shaved dark chocolate, prominent mineral, ground pepper and an underlay of rose and thyme. On the palate, it is finely formed with a lovely core of fruit, yet possessing excellent movement and vibrancy, especially on the ample finish. For this vintage, this wine reveals nice accessible characteristics, but there is ample structure here to allow the wine to age nicely for 10-12 years.
The 2019 is a superb and classy version of this wine, which is a longtime Cellar Door stalwart. Lofty scents of raspberry fruit combine with shaved dark chocolate, prominent mineral, ground pepper and an underlay of rose and thyme. On the palate, it is finely formed with a lovely core of fruit, yet possessing excellent movement and vibrancy, especially on the ample finish. For this vintage, this wine reveals nice accessible characteristics, but there is ample structure here to allow the wine to age nicely for 10-12 years.
The third of three compelling white wines on this week’s Hotsheet happens to be a Gambero Rosso Slow Food Tre Bicchieri Award winner…again. Because of the cool microclimate where Clelia Romano's Colli di Lapio estate is located in the hills east of Naples and due to the poor volcanic soil of Mount Vesuvius, this is a prime growing area for white wine. The Fiano di Avellino takes its name from the variety that the Latins called Vitis Apiana because the vine's grapes were so sweet that they proved irresistible to bees (api).
Absolutely no oak is employed in the making of this Italian white wine. Stony, oceanic aromas prevail with underlying rose-oil, Anjou pear and prominent pink grapefruit tones. Propelling flavors are nicely formed and concentrated with a sense of weightlessness. Succulent, dry and really hangs around, this is an ultimate vehicle with seafood. I see a bowl of piping hot pasta with clams, scallops and calamari dressed in olive oil and lemon in our future.
Absolutely no oak is employed in the making of this Italian white wine. Stony, oceanic aromas prevail with underlying rose-oil, Anjou pear and prominent pink grapefruit tones. Propelling flavors are nicely formed and concentrated with a sense of weightlessness. Succulent, dry and really hangs around, this is an ultimate vehicle with seafood. I see a bowl of piping hot pasta with clams, scallops and calamari dressed in olive oil and lemon in our future.
One of Rioja’s influences, Pedro Pecina worked for 20 years at La Rioja Alta before starting his own Bodega in 1992. Producing a range of Rioja wines in all price points, the entry Cosecha is always shows excellent quality/price rapport.
95% Tempranillo, 3% Graciano, 2% Garnacha and possessing an almost ruby nose of blue flowers, roasted earth, raspberries and strawberries, it exudes the class of something that should cost a lot more. Fleshy and fresh in the mouth with just the right amount of spiciness from a short time in oak, it is smooth and plush without pretension and makes for a wonderful, everyday drink. Have it with a range of cuisine from cold meats and grilled vegetables to roasted chicken or fish stews.
95% Tempranillo, 3% Graciano, 2% Garnacha and possessing an almost ruby nose of blue flowers, roasted earth, raspberries and strawberries, it exudes the class of something that should cost a lot more. Fleshy and fresh in the mouth with just the right amount of spiciness from a short time in oak, it is smooth and plush without pretension and makes for a wonderful, everyday drink. Have it with a range of cuisine from cold meats and grilled vegetables to roasted chicken or fish stews.
Graillot is the King of all Crozes-Hermitage producers, and after buying, selling, cellaring and consuming these wines since the 1988 vintage, it can be stated that the La Guiraude cuvee is the finest version in the appellation. As to never sacrifice the quality of the classic Crozes, La Guiraude is only produced in the finest vintages, this cuvee is amongst the most symbolic, poignant Syrah wines of the Northern Rhone, and it is uber-rare that we ever offer it out to the broad list.
Tea-smoked Crozes indeed. A true and alluring expression Syrah, this wine presents fragrant aromas of spice, tar and a prominent suggestion of tea smoke which surround savory black currant fruit. The mouth-feel is full of plum and pepper with fine, ripe and integrated tannins along with a layer of earth and meatiness rolling into a lingering, drawn out finish of fruitcake spices that add to the mystique of this amazing offering. This is profound, outstanding, and motivating and will drink and develop for 15-20 years.
Tea-smoked Crozes indeed. A true and alluring expression Syrah, this wine presents fragrant aromas of spice, tar and a prominent suggestion of tea smoke which surround savory black currant fruit. The mouth-feel is full of plum and pepper with fine, ripe and integrated tannins along with a layer of earth and meatiness rolling into a lingering, drawn out finish of fruitcake spices that add to the mystique of this amazing offering. This is profound, outstanding, and motivating and will drink and develop for 15-20 years.
