Friday Sips
FRIDAY SIPS
Experience Saint-Joseph
Today October 26 from 1:30 - 6:30
Experience Saint-Joseph
Today October 26 from 1:30 - 6:30
A slightly longer read than usual but worth it. Even more worth it if you come in and taste today!
Educational, fun and diverse, come in and get schooled on French Syrah and Roussanne/Marsanne from St-Joseph in the Northern Rhone.
Educational, fun and diverse, come in and get schooled on French Syrah and Roussanne/Marsanne from St-Joseph in the Northern Rhone.
2016 VINCENT PARIS
SAINT-JOSEPH 'LES COTES'
$27.99 BTL./$335.88 CASE
SAINT-JOSEPH 'LES COTES'
$27.99 BTL./$335.88 CASE
When I was envisioning this tasting, it was by happenstance that we collected our St-Joseph reds for today from Cornas specialists. The history of St-Joseph wine stretches back to the late 15th century and was originally known as Vin de Mauves. Also mentioned in Victor Hugo's Les Miserables is that the wine was a favorite of the court of Louis XII who happened to own a vineyard called Clos de Tournon. Modern history begins at 1916 and appellation status came in 1956 with the original six villages from just above Cornas to just above Tournon-sur-Rhone (which we are solely focusing on today), across from the Hermitage hill. It has often been stated that one enjoys the Syrah from St-Joseph while waiting for the Cote-Rotie, Hermitage and Cornas to mature.
In 1971, the appellation of Saint-Joseph was extended from the original six villages all the way up to the village of Chavanay, which is close to Condrieu and Cote-Rotie. Now encompassing 26 villages, the powers that be capped the appellation in 1994. Given the length of the appellation (35 miles or so) and combined with various microclimates, slopes and soils, the terroirs are vastly different as are the respective wines. Since 1997, Vincent Paris is of the younger generation that has excelled and has kept the tiny appellation of Cornas thriving. Not only does this guy make very special Cornas, he also makes resoundingly delicious Saint-Joseph that comes from Ardoix, about 20 miles from Cornas, planted at just under 1000 feet.
I often say that N. Rhone Syrah, Burgundy Pinot Noir and Piedmont Nebbiolo are perhaps three brothers from the same mother with their alluring aromatics and ability for deep complexity. Aromatic and vivacious nose of smoked meat, roasted coffee, creamy raspberry, milk chocolate, white pepper and violet. Elevated, sophisticated yet with meatiness and a balance of red fruit and pretty flowers that follow seamlessly into the mouth and leaving a tingling impression. Drink over the next 5 to 7 years with pulled pork sandwiches, grilled meat and hearty stews.
In 1971, the appellation of Saint-Joseph was extended from the original six villages all the way up to the village of Chavanay, which is close to Condrieu and Cote-Rotie. Now encompassing 26 villages, the powers that be capped the appellation in 1994. Given the length of the appellation (35 miles or so) and combined with various microclimates, slopes and soils, the terroirs are vastly different as are the respective wines. Since 1997, Vincent Paris is of the younger generation that has excelled and has kept the tiny appellation of Cornas thriving. Not only does this guy make very special Cornas, he also makes resoundingly delicious Saint-Joseph that comes from Ardoix, about 20 miles from Cornas, planted at just under 1000 feet.
I often say that N. Rhone Syrah, Burgundy Pinot Noir and Piedmont Nebbiolo are perhaps three brothers from the same mother with their alluring aromatics and ability for deep complexity. Aromatic and vivacious nose of smoked meat, roasted coffee, creamy raspberry, milk chocolate, white pepper and violet. Elevated, sophisticated yet with meatiness and a balance of red fruit and pretty flowers that follow seamlessly into the mouth and leaving a tingling impression. Drink over the next 5 to 7 years with pulled pork sandwiches, grilled meat and hearty stews.
2015 ERIC ET JOEL DURAND
SAINT-JOSEPH 'LES COTEAUX'
$26.99 BTL./$323.88 CASE
SAINT-JOSEPH 'LES COTEAUX'
$26.99 BTL./$323.88 CASE
Saint-Joseph is an actual saint, allegedly the protector of scorned husbands, for whom the wine is named after. The only scorn these days would be the mistake of trying to compare these wines to the likes of Australia, California or Washington. Differing soils and slopes are what these wines are all about as well as their cool-climate conditions. Having taken over the family’s estate in 1991, Eric and Joel Durand converted from being polyculture to being full viticulture and solely focusing on grapes and wines. These two brothers are known for making killer Cornas but they actually have more land in St-Joseph and this wine has fabulous price to quality rapport.
Sensual Syrah, the Les Coteaux cuvee is 100% Syrah, aged in one to five year old barrels and is located on various granitic soils lust outside of Cornas. With a nose consisting of violets, smoke, and cassis, this wine smells so good you almost don't need to taste it. In the mouth, it is nicely balanced with bursting plum and spice, an excellent silky texture and classic, firm acidity along with a fine, smoky finish with persistence that is the product of the superb 2015 vintage. Send me to a desert island with this bottle of Saint-Joe and a nice rack of lamb and I'll be extremely happy. At least until I run out of wine! Drink over the next decade.
Sensual Syrah, the Les Coteaux cuvee is 100% Syrah, aged in one to five year old barrels and is located on various granitic soils lust outside of Cornas. With a nose consisting of violets, smoke, and cassis, this wine smells so good you almost don't need to taste it. In the mouth, it is nicely balanced with bursting plum and spice, an excellent silky texture and classic, firm acidity along with a fine, smoky finish with persistence that is the product of the superb 2015 vintage. Send me to a desert island with this bottle of Saint-Joe and a nice rack of lamb and I'll be extremely happy. At least until I run out of wine! Drink over the next decade.
2015 VOGE SAINT-JOSEPH
'LES COTES'
$39.99 BTL./$479.88 CASE
'LES COTES'
$39.99 BTL./$479.88 CASE
One of the grand names of Cornas, Northern Rhone and Syrah, Domaine Voge makes epic wines on all levels. In 1965 at age 26, Alain Voge took over the estate after his father passed away unexpectedly and quickly established the wines into the top of the top of Cornas. In 2004, Alberic Mazoyer came over from Chapoutier to become partner with Alain and continue the estate’s success. At the end of this month, Alberic will retire from the Domaine and his handpicked successor and right hand man Lionel Fraisse will lead the estate. The Voge has a motto of ‘enlightened classicism’ and it is apropos when describing any of the Voge wines.
St-Joseph became a part of this Domaine about 10 years ago. Commencing in 2015 it is now named after the locale where it comes from called Les Cotes. I had the chance to visit these vineyards and they are steep enough to make a Billy goat puke! One has to wonder if there is an easier way to make a living, especially given the labor and detail that goes into not only the 450-500 case production here but also the entire range. If I had to describe the wine in one sentence, it would best be described as "purity of fruit and earth with minimal influence from oak", but since I have been known to shoot my mouth off for days about these wines, I will expound.
Forward and pretty perfume of smoke, black cherries, and white pepper; in the mouth, it is very clean, and silky with lots of red fruit, high toned briskness, and a finish that fans out nicely, not unlike something from Burgundy, even though it's the Rhone. This is just a plain delicious bottle of wine meant for the table and is perfect with everything from duck, to rabbit, to venison. Chuck in a few olives, and now you are really talking! Drink over the next 12-15 years.
St-Joseph became a part of this Domaine about 10 years ago. Commencing in 2015 it is now named after the locale where it comes from called Les Cotes. I had the chance to visit these vineyards and they are steep enough to make a Billy goat puke! One has to wonder if there is an easier way to make a living, especially given the labor and detail that goes into not only the 450-500 case production here but also the entire range. If I had to describe the wine in one sentence, it would best be described as "purity of fruit and earth with minimal influence from oak", but since I have been known to shoot my mouth off for days about these wines, I will expound.
Forward and pretty perfume of smoke, black cherries, and white pepper; in the mouth, it is very clean, and silky with lots of red fruit, high toned briskness, and a finish that fans out nicely, not unlike something from Burgundy, even though it's the Rhone. This is just a plain delicious bottle of wine meant for the table and is perfect with everything from duck, to rabbit, to venison. Chuck in a few olives, and now you are really talking! Drink over the next 12-15 years.
2015 JL CHAVE SELECTIONS
SAINT-JOSEPH BLANC 'CIRCA'
$29.99 BTL./$359.88 CASE
SAINT-JOSEPH BLANC 'CIRCA'
$29.99 BTL./$359.88 CASE
Circa, formally known as ‘Celeste’, is a blend of old-vine Roussanne planted in Mauves on granitic slopes with Marsanne and is the only white made by Jean Louis Chave that comes from granitic soil. The premier vintage for St-Jo Blanc under the Selections label was 2009 after the purchase of a well-run Domaine. The land here has inspired Jean-Louis to plant and work with more Roussanne as the terroir and varietal are expressed very well.
White grapes, specifically Marsanne and Roussanne, account for only 10% of Saint-Joseph's vines so we never see these wines offered in mass quantity. Savory aromas that are expressive and aromatic fill the glass. Pineapple, ginger, jasmine, anise and white pepper aspects shine on the nose. Unapologetically full bodied with a lovely round texture, sneaky mineral and plenty of late-arriving mandarin tones fill the mouth and provide immense palate-pleasure. Very enjoyable with both fullness and freshness, enjoy drinking this over the next 5-6 years. It absolutely sings with asparagus dishes, halibut in sauce or seared scallops wrapped in bacon.
White grapes, specifically Marsanne and Roussanne, account for only 10% of Saint-Joseph's vines so we never see these wines offered in mass quantity. Savory aromas that are expressive and aromatic fill the glass. Pineapple, ginger, jasmine, anise and white pepper aspects shine on the nose. Unapologetically full bodied with a lovely round texture, sneaky mineral and plenty of late-arriving mandarin tones fill the mouth and provide immense palate-pleasure. Very enjoyable with both fullness and freshness, enjoy drinking this over the next 5-6 years. It absolutely sings with asparagus dishes, halibut in sauce or seared scallops wrapped in bacon.
