1/4/22 The Cellar Door's 'KINDA CRAZY' HotSheet
THE CELLAR DOOR'S 'KINDA CRAZY' HOTSHEET
96 point Piedmont & Burgundy, Fat Half-Off Cab & Muscadet Specials, Values from Vieux-Telegraphe & Roederer
We aren’t exactly gliding into 2022 with this special; we are kicking in the entry door! Los Vascos is famed Bordeaux First Growth Lafite-Rothschild's estate in Chile and their Grande Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon is always an outstanding value and always in the Lafite style of smoothness and refinement.
Version 2016 continues in a long streak of successes for the estate with captivating cassis, tealeaf, ground pepper and dark chocolate aromas. Creamy and palate-smothering all while maintaining poise, personality and fine depth. Understated vibrancy and structure, especially on the long, stylish silky finish that is the Lafite influence will allow the wine to develop for 3-5 more years although why wait, this is irresistible and delicious now!
Version 2016 continues in a long streak of successes for the estate with captivating cassis, tealeaf, ground pepper and dark chocolate aromas. Creamy and palate-smothering all while maintaining poise, personality and fine depth. Understated vibrancy and structure, especially on the long, stylish silky finish that is the Lafite influence will allow the wine to develop for 3-5 more years although why wait, this is irresistible and delicious now!
We are about as excited as a Frenchman who has just found a carton of Gauloises or Gítanes to offer this Muscadet at this special price. The recent changes in this region have been earth shaking as they have moved towards a Cru system that is not unlike Cru Beaujolais, which highlights the diverse terroirs as well as the bone dry Melon grape (Muscadet is a region, Muscat is a grape!)!
The Quinze Homees Cuvee comes from the Templerie Cru composed of Clisson granite in the South of Sèvre and Maine. The vines form virtual islands on these mounds that are well ventilated, not very fertile and comprised of sand and pebbles with the bedrock returning to the ‘Clisson granite’. A Muscadet masterpiece. Complex, and meditative with smoky, deep aromas, it doesn't get much purer than this with bracing acidity in the mouth and tons of lemon, lychee, mineral, saline and smoke. Expands and gains lots of precision. This one is a perfect choice for grilled fish or even slightly spicy Asian dishes. Drink over the next decade.
The Quinze Homees Cuvee comes from the Templerie Cru composed of Clisson granite in the South of Sèvre and Maine. The vines form virtual islands on these mounds that are well ventilated, not very fertile and comprised of sand and pebbles with the bedrock returning to the ‘Clisson granite’. A Muscadet masterpiece. Complex, and meditative with smoky, deep aromas, it doesn't get much purer than this with bracing acidity in the mouth and tons of lemon, lychee, mineral, saline and smoke. Expands and gains lots of precision. This one is a perfect choice for grilled fish or even slightly spicy Asian dishes. Drink over the next decade.
A scrumptious glimpse into the world of Vieux Telegraphe and the Brunier family of wine, Le Pigeoulet is a fantastic value from a great source. It is listed as Vaucluse Rouge, but its stature is much loftier than most in this category. The fruit for this wine comes from two of this Chateauneuf legend’s excellent sites, one in the Cotes-du-Rhone area 15 kilometers north of Avignon, the other in the Ventoux just outside of the village of Caromb. Both sites are blended together and the assemblage is 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 5% Carignan and 5% Cinsault.
Spice-driven, juicy telltale Rhône/Vieux Telegraphe aromas of anise, red flowers, red raspberry, herbes de Provence (particularly rosemary), hot minerals, earth and smoked hickory wood waft from the glass. In the mouth, there is a stunning balance of compact and lacy purity. Fine structured flavors flow to a lingering silky finish making this a fine offering to have with roasted lamb, meat and cheese. It is also a wonderful TV wine. VT while watching TV, life is good, yes??!! Drink it now, often and through 2024.
Spice-driven, juicy telltale Rhône/Vieux Telegraphe aromas of anise, red flowers, red raspberry, herbes de Provence (particularly rosemary), hot minerals, earth and smoked hickory wood waft from the glass. In the mouth, there is a stunning balance of compact and lacy purity. Fine structured flavors flow to a lingering silky finish making this a fine offering to have with roasted lamb, meat and cheese. It is also a wonderful TV wine. VT while watching TV, life is good, yes??!! Drink it now, often and through 2024.
Famed for its Anderson Valley Roederer Estate as well as their prodigious Champagnes, Louis Roederer decided to go on a new adventure in 2012 by establishing Domaine Anderson to make small production Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines that are not bubbly.
Unlike Napa and Sonoma, this area is possesses a cooler climate allowing for more breezy and elevated wines. Upon pouring, honeysuckle, pear, lemon and nicely place but not overdone buttery aspects and oak tones allow the fruit and detail to shine through. Round and nicely concentrated but the underlying acidity provides fine zip and zest, especially on the fine finish. A terrific choice for fish tacos.
Unlike Napa and Sonoma, this area is possesses a cooler climate allowing for more breezy and elevated wines. Upon pouring, honeysuckle, pear, lemon and nicely place but not overdone buttery aspects and oak tones allow the fruit and detail to shine through. Round and nicely concentrated but the underlying acidity provides fine zip and zest, especially on the fine finish. A terrific choice for fish tacos.
From one of the four satellite villages of Bordeaux’s famed Saint-Emilion region, Chateau Tour-Bayard is truly one of the region’s apex values. This prototype blend is essence of the region and showing off the clay, limestone and gravel soils very well indeed.
Stacked and packed this wine shows off class and grace, yet has a trucker's mouth with a bit of attitude and sass to it. Teeming with earth, limestone, red cherry, some violet and kisses of olive and tobacco on the nose, it follows through to a texture that is mouth coating and having substance and vivacity that one expects in a dry red wine from Bordeaux. Excellent length and a wine that will outclass a number of higher-priced neighbors to the south this wine can be consumed over the next ten years with seared beef or just about any duck dish.
Stacked and packed this wine shows off class and grace, yet has a trucker's mouth with a bit of attitude and sass to it. Teeming with earth, limestone, red cherry, some violet and kisses of olive and tobacco on the nose, it follows through to a texture that is mouth coating and having substance and vivacity that one expects in a dry red wine from Bordeaux. Excellent length and a wine that will outclass a number of higher-priced neighbors to the south this wine can be consumed over the next ten years with seared beef or just about any duck dish.
Greco is the oldest grape varietal of Campania and one of Italy's oldest, originally imported from the Greek region of Thessaly some 2500 years ago. Regarded as one of Italy's finest white wine grapes, Greco, especially from the Tufo has gained renown for its refined, complex characteristics and Villa Matilde's version is the money.
The transparency of the vineyard's exposed stony soil is immediately evident with jaunting, energetic minerality. Peach, Meyer lemon, honeysuckle, thyme and saline seep up from the glass and excite the olfactory senses. Brilliant clarity and briskness surround a sultry, silky texture that seemingly covers the entire palate. Coats, cleanses, cuts back and then scores! Oceanic flavors arrive on the finish that is poised and seemingly everlasting. Go get some of the good crab, some good olive oil, maybe a chili flake or two, cook ‘em up and toss the concoction in some spaghetti and off you go.
The transparency of the vineyard's exposed stony soil is immediately evident with jaunting, energetic minerality. Peach, Meyer lemon, honeysuckle, thyme and saline seep up from the glass and excite the olfactory senses. Brilliant clarity and briskness surround a sultry, silky texture that seemingly covers the entire palate. Coats, cleanses, cuts back and then scores! Oceanic flavors arrive on the finish that is poised and seemingly everlasting. Go get some of the good crab, some good olive oil, maybe a chili flake or two, cook ‘em up and toss the concoction in some spaghetti and off you go.
I want to move through the last bottles of this excellent wine to make room for new vintages, hence the great price. Philippe Cheron keeps placing his mark on the Burgundy map each year with great selections such as this offering. Alas as in Burgundy, prices keep escalating but with this estate flying under the radar, they remain nicely priced. There are a couple other producers who work from this site and their wines are significantly more expensive.
Les Barreaux is located in quite a respectable neighborhood bordering the Grand Cru of Richebourg and legendary Premier Cru Cros Parentoux. Always performs on a Premier Cru level and should be upgraded IMHO. Spice box, crème de mure, and Italian plum, more and more fragrance as it opens. Potpourri and other exotic spices. Lots of clarity and focus even at a youthful point. Rocky and stony flavors emerge due to the abundance of limestone but the bottom line is the 2017 structure meeting sensuality as well as a gorgeous core of fruit. Rich, yet tender, there is a veneer of silk that crawls through the mouth. Energetic, very long and with serious snap back. Hold until 2023 and drink through 2034+
Les Barreaux is located in quite a respectable neighborhood bordering the Grand Cru of Richebourg and legendary Premier Cru Cros Parentoux. Always performs on a Premier Cru level and should be upgraded IMHO. Spice box, crème de mure, and Italian plum, more and more fragrance as it opens. Potpourri and other exotic spices. Lots of clarity and focus even at a youthful point. Rocky and stony flavors emerge due to the abundance of limestone but the bottom line is the 2017 structure meeting sensuality as well as a gorgeous core of fruit. Rich, yet tender, there is a veneer of silk that crawls through the mouth. Energetic, very long and with serious snap back. Hold until 2023 and drink through 2034+
96 Points – Vinous… The northern reaches of Piedmont, particularly Gattinara, Ghemme & Lessona, are rapidly becoming a force to be reckoned with. Serious producers are and have been on the scene and delivering some wonderful wines and Cantalupo has been a longtime stalwart and godfather of the Ghemme region. Let’s face it, if these wines were from Barolo or Barbaresco they would be twice the price! Ghemme and Gattinara are in very close proximity, but the terroirs could not be more different. Ghemme's soils come from Alpine, glacial deposits from the ice age and are laced with sand and clay whereas Gattinara's soils are volcanic and also packing granitic and quartz deposits. The Arlunno family is the deity of this region and they have quite a reputation among insiders in the business.
‘The 2013 Ghemme Collis Breclamae is fabulous. Deep, dark and also translucent, the 2013 possesses magnificent clarity as well as structure. Black cherry, lavender, truffle, mint, spice and new leather all develop in an ample, resonant Ghemme that hits all the right notes. A rich, substantial finish rounds things out in style. The 2013 can be enjoyed with minimal cellaring, but it also has the pedigree to develop in the cellar for many years to come. Each time I come back to the 2013 it is more impressive. – 96 POINTS VINOUS’
‘The 2013 Ghemme Collis Breclamae is fabulous. Deep, dark and also translucent, the 2013 possesses magnificent clarity as well as structure. Black cherry, lavender, truffle, mint, spice and new leather all develop in an ample, resonant Ghemme that hits all the right notes. A rich, substantial finish rounds things out in style. The 2013 can be enjoyed with minimal cellaring, but it also has the pedigree to develop in the cellar for many years to come. Each time I come back to the 2013 it is more impressive. – 96 POINTS VINOUS’