3/26/20 White Burgundy Values (and Red too)
CELLAR DOOR'S White Burgundy Valuies (and Red too)
2018 MAISON CHANZY BOURGOGNE
CHARDONNAY 'LA FORTUNE'
$24.99 BTL./$299.88 CASE
CHARDONNAY 'LA FORTUNE'
$24.99 BTL./$299.88 CASE
I cannot exactly contain my excitement for these! Two weeks ago, I tasted two outstanding white Burgundy wines that are killer up and comers. This particular grower/negociant was purchased in 2013 and has since set off many fireworks. The Bourgogne Chardonnay is grown within the same vicinity of the Aligote (see next entry) in the village of Bouzeron, but when it is not bottles as 100% Aligote, it must be labeled as Bourgogne Chardonnay and be 100% Chardonnay as this wine is. Grown on the slopes outside of the Clos de la Fortune in La Fortune, this wine shows how good Chardonnay is here and is a tremendous value.
Impressive, upscale aromas indicate that this wine is wearing its platform shoes well! White peach, mineral, rum-butter, orange and crème brulée scents stand out and follow through to an exciting texture that is rich and is buffered by excellent citrus tones. The finish is electric with impressive viscosity and length. Total instant gratification wine and excellent with denser fish dishes.
Impressive, upscale aromas indicate that this wine is wearing its platform shoes well! White peach, mineral, rum-butter, orange and crème brulée scents stand out and follow through to an exciting texture that is rich and is buffered by excellent citrus tones. The finish is electric with impressive viscosity and length. Total instant gratification wine and excellent with denser fish dishes.
2017 MAISON CHANZY BOUZERON
'CLOS DE LA FORTUNES' ALIGOTE
$26.99 BTL./$323.88 CASE
'CLOS DE LA FORTUNES' ALIGOTE
$26.99 BTL./$323.88 CASE
This is truly one of the most superb Aligote wines that I have ever tasted! Okay, so it isn’t much of a secret that the village was upgraded to its own appellation in 1997; it truly celebrates the greatness of Aligote. In order to be denoted as Bouzeron, it has to be 100% Aligote Dore (a special clone of Aligote) and 100% from Bouzeron. Maison Chanzy is seriously one of the finest at this site as well as others in the Cote Chalonnais. Think of this as Grand Cru Aligote it is that good!
The 2017 Aligote virtually carjacks the palate yet old vine depth and layers are present. Planted in a 4-acre single clos in Bouzeron that is solely owned by Chanzy, hand harvested and fermented gently to preserve freshness, this wine takes off from the moment it is poured. Scents of lime, anise, yellow flowers, sizzling mineral, saline and a kiss of white peach follow through to a palate-filling texture that has excellent movement and energy along with electricity and persistence that conjure up thoughts serious happiness. Full of depth, poise and persistence, this wine is utterly remarkable for its price. Drink this beauty with a flaky fish doused in a butter-laden sauce. Interesting because this is actually priced slightly higher than the below mentioned and excellent Bourgogne Chardonnay mostly because while Chardonnay thrives and rocks here, Aligote is king in Bouzeron.
The 2017 Aligote virtually carjacks the palate yet old vine depth and layers are present. Planted in a 4-acre single clos in Bouzeron that is solely owned by Chanzy, hand harvested and fermented gently to preserve freshness, this wine takes off from the moment it is poured. Scents of lime, anise, yellow flowers, sizzling mineral, saline and a kiss of white peach follow through to a palate-filling texture that has excellent movement and energy along with electricity and persistence that conjure up thoughts serious happiness. Full of depth, poise and persistence, this wine is utterly remarkable for its price. Drink this beauty with a flaky fish doused in a butter-laden sauce. Interesting because this is actually priced slightly higher than the below mentioned and excellent Bourgogne Chardonnay mostly because while Chardonnay thrives and rocks here, Aligote is king in Bouzeron.
2017 MAISON CHANZY RULLY BLANC
'EN ROSEY'
$29.99 BTL./$359.88 CASE
'EN ROSEY'
$29.99 BTL./$359.88 CASE
Located a mere 15 minutes (11 km) from Chassagne-Montrachet, Rully is another region that provides excellent bang for the buck in Burgundy. The terrain and exposures change from the Cote D’Or but one can expect a whole heap of goodness from a bottle, especially given the quantity of fabulous producers.
En Rosey is from one of the highest elevated points in this appellation thus resulting in a cool-climate Chardonnay. Think of something with creaminess in the Cote D’Or combined with the electricity of what one might find in Chablis. Pear, mineral, rum-butter, prominent anise orange and crème brulée scents stand out and follow through to an exciting texture that is rich and is buffered by excellent citrus tones. The finish is electric with impressive viscosity and length. Total instant gratification wine… however, with its nice crisp gripping underbelly, this can also age nicely for 5-7 years, too. This wine long with the previous two are testamental white Burgundy experiences that will not damage your pocketbook.
En Rosey is from one of the highest elevated points in this appellation thus resulting in a cool-climate Chardonnay. Think of something with creaminess in the Cote D’Or combined with the electricity of what one might find in Chablis. Pear, mineral, rum-butter, prominent anise orange and crème brulée scents stand out and follow through to an exciting texture that is rich and is buffered by excellent citrus tones. The finish is electric with impressive viscosity and length. Total instant gratification wine… however, with its nice crisp gripping underbelly, this can also age nicely for 5-7 years, too. This wine long with the previous two are testamental white Burgundy experiences that will not damage your pocketbook.
2016 MONGEARD-MUGNURET
HAUTES-COTES DE NUITS ROUGE
'LES DAMES HUGUETTES'
$29.99 BTL./$359.88 CASE
HAUTES-COTES DE NUITS ROUGE
'LES DAMES HUGUETTES'
$29.99 BTL./$359.88 CASE
While we love the absolute greats of Burgundy, we sometimes lament the facts that all too often this region becomes exclusive rather than inclusive. So many out there chase labels and forget the fact there are so many excellent wines that aren’t necessarily Premier or Grand Cru. Mongeard-Mugnuret has plenty of Grands Crus to offer (Echezeaux, Richebourg, etc.) but they also make exquisite regional wine that absolutely kills it for not a ton of money.
Located in the hills above Vosne-Romanee and Nuits St-Georges, many interesting things are going on in the Hautes-Cotes these days. Receiving all of the love that the top Premiers and Grands Crus, this wine is one hell of a glass of Pinot. Refined, yet elusive aromas, quite formidable for just having Hautes-Cotes de Nuits appellation status. Cherry-pit, cooking herbs, violets give way to a texture that is well formed with excellent mid-palate depth, power and persistence. Moves nicely and given the greatness of 2016, performs mightily. Drink over the next 10-12 years.
Located in the hills above Vosne-Romanee and Nuits St-Georges, many interesting things are going on in the Hautes-Cotes these days. Receiving all of the love that the top Premiers and Grands Crus, this wine is one hell of a glass of Pinot. Refined, yet elusive aromas, quite formidable for just having Hautes-Cotes de Nuits appellation status. Cherry-pit, cooking herbs, violets give way to a texture that is well formed with excellent mid-palate depth, power and persistence. Moves nicely and given the greatness of 2016, performs mightily. Drink over the next 10-12 years.
2017 CHATEAU DE LA TERRIERE
BOURGOGNE PINOT NOIR
$17.99 BTL./$215.88 CASE
BOURGOGNE PINOT NOIR
$17.99 BTL./$215.88 CASE
Known for their delicious Beaujolais wines, Chateau de la Terriere also produces a small amount of Pinot Noir from an area known as the Pierres Dorees. This southern area near Lyon is famed for its golden stone houses as well as its granitic soils. For some reason Pinot Noir performs very well in this spot even if there isn’t much planted. This particular wine comes from a parcel that has vines that average 50 years in age that have not only granite but limestone and clay for depth and energy.
Do not compare this with Oregon. Do not compare this with the Cote D’Or near Beaune, this has a distinct Pinot personality all its own. Generous cherry scents present along with a distinct black licorice, tealeaf, graham and peppercorn. Straight-on aromas and flavors make this a perfect ‘vin de soif’ that has depth and prominent spice. Drink over the next 3-4 years with roasted duck, turkey, terrines, pâtés, or subtle yet creamy cheeses.
Do not compare this with Oregon. Do not compare this with the Cote D’Or near Beaune, this has a distinct Pinot personality all its own. Generous cherry scents present along with a distinct black licorice, tealeaf, graham and peppercorn. Straight-on aromas and flavors make this a perfect ‘vin de soif’ that has depth and prominent spice. Drink over the next 3-4 years with roasted duck, turkey, terrines, pâtés, or subtle yet creamy cheeses.
2017 RAPET SAVIGNY-LES-BEAUNE
'AUX FOURNAUX' PREMIER CRU
$45.99 BTL./$551.88 CASE
'AUX FOURNAUX' PREMIER CRU
$45.99 BTL./$551.88 CASE
Situated in the lovely village of Pernand-Vergelesses, Domaine Rapet makes 21 different wines from just under 49 acres of land. Sounds like a lot but in reality, these are all in small production. One could call Vincent Rapet a Pernand specialist, however, the range winds through the appellations of Aloxe-Corton, Savigny-les-Beaune, Chorey-les-Beaune, Beaune Premiers Crus, Pernand and up to Grand Cru red and white Corton. The feature on offer here is a prolific Savigny-les-Beaune wine.
A Premier Cru on Savigny's Right bank, sensuous aromatics suggest lovely wild marionberry, cinnamon stick, kisses of cocoa, pronounced lavender and exotic spice. Dryer than New World Pinot Noir, this wine penetrates deeply due to its ancient vines. Truly poised and multi-faceted it is a sophisticated expression of Savigny-les-Beaune. Moreover, talk about the focused finish…this one is long with plum and pepper. 2017 is one of two stunning vintages in a row. This is not undrinkable now, but it will easily develop and silk out over the next 10-12 years.
A Premier Cru on Savigny's Right bank, sensuous aromatics suggest lovely wild marionberry, cinnamon stick, kisses of cocoa, pronounced lavender and exotic spice. Dryer than New World Pinot Noir, this wine penetrates deeply due to its ancient vines. Truly poised and multi-faceted it is a sophisticated expression of Savigny-les-Beaune. Moreover, talk about the focused finish…this one is long with plum and pepper. 2017 is one of two stunning vintages in a row. This is not undrinkable now, but it will easily develop and silk out over the next 10-12 years.
