9/3/19 The Cellar Door's 'NEBBY' HotSheet


THE CELLAR DOOR'S 'NEBBY' HOTSHEET
Oregon Pinots from Cristom's Steve Doerner, Meursault, 93 pt Chianti, Champagne & more


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2015 SIERRA CANTABRIA
RIOJA CRIANZA
$17.99 BTL./$215.88 CASE

For many of us in the wine trade, reflecting over what we have drank over the past weekend on Monday morning is something of a ritual. On a recent weekend, this old favorite showed itself to be a delicious standout. There may be more expensive and more serious Rioja, but when it comes to one of sheer pleasure, this one is hard to beat.

100% Tempranillo. Modern fruit-forward tones of strawberry and spicy oak mingle nicely with earth tones. Plenty of voluptuous fruit is present in the mouth with lacey tannins and soft spice enable this wine to carry nicely to the dinner table. Drink it now through 2023 with roasted lamb or pork loin.



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2017 CAPITAINE VOUVRAY SEC
'LES PERRIERES'
$16.99 BTL./$203.88 CASE

Seemingly, Vouvray is two different appellations. There is the first, which unfortunately, many folks have come to know as Vouvray, is one that is overripe, sickeningly sweet and unbalanced stuff from the lowlands that are rich in clay soils that roll down the hill when it rains. Good for growing melons, oranges and tomatoes, but not particularly for grapes.

The second appellation lies on the rolling hills above the village of Vouvray and its surrounding seven villages. These vineyard sites are full of nervous energy from the calcareous, rock-laden soils that are very influential to the resulting wines. Les Perrieres, meaning stones, is a dry and jaunting white wine chock full of aromatic stony, flinty scents that ride on top of lemon and white peach fruit. Racy, tense and zingy this wine is a mouthwatering match with smoked salmon, mussels and goat cheese.



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2016 LUKE JEFFERSON PINOT NOIR
'THE HEAD & THE HEART'
$59.99 BTL./$359.94 - SIX PACK

Luke Jefferson Vineyards was started in 2012 by famed, influential Cristom winemaker Steve Doerner and his wife Irene Steh as an homage to their young son Luke. The Doerner style utilizing whole clusters is evident in these small production wines. Built to age, these are some of the most compelling arrivals from Oregon that I have seen this year.

Made from their vineyard on the eastern slopes of Eola-Amity that was planted in 2000, this small 2.5-acre site is planted to five clones. Aged in 30% new oak and is 57% whole cluster fermentation, it is ethereal and cerebral. A real seducer possessing sexy, aromatic tones of red raspberry, red flowers, cassis, clove, gently placed herbs and plenty of red earth and cinnamon. A wine that you just want to keep on smelling, but eventually, you have to take a sip, and wow, what a first sip! Lavish, very refined, lacy, but also having killer dimension and depth. Currently wrapped in a ball right now, the fruit will want to lead you to believe that it is extremely accessible now, but don't be misled, there is ample material just waiting to be unleashed! Youthfully packed with stunning length, vibrancy and Christmas spices abound this wine should be cellared until 2023 and consumed through 2031+. A mere 186 cases of this brilliant Pinot were produced.



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2016 LUKE JEFFERSON PINOT NOIR
'SYMBION'
$23.99 BTL./$287.88 CASE

A small side project, Steve Doerner initially started Symbion in 1997 and it has morphed into the entry wine of Luke Jefferson. Once again, do not be fooled into thinking that there is an abundance of this wine, only 120 cases were produced for 2017 and it truly over-delivers for its price.

A blend of Head and Heart Vineyard and LS (Larry Stone’s Lingua Franca) Vineyard. This Eola Hills Pinot was done in 30% new oak and contains 43% whole clusters. Instantly enticing notes of lavender, cinnamon-coated strawberries, mushrooms and intermittent, aromatic herbs and spice gently careen for the glass. Suave, full of fashion-sense with ripe red cherry, telltale cinnamon and very fine tannins, which give some flattering structure beneath the surface. Think of elegance, poise yet assertiveness and you will understand the wine. Smoke and lacey fruit linger on the saturated, old-vine finish. Very sexy now and will continue to develop through 2025 and probably beyond.



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2015 FONTERUTOLI CHIANTI CLASSICO
$23.99 BTL./$287.88 CASE

The hottest Chianti wines out there could be compared to Fashion Week in New York, debuting which designs will make the most impeccable statement. It could also be modeled after the NFL's version of fashion week where players model and recommend their favorite firearms to brandish while wearing a $1500+ suit. Either way, things and tastes change and even at the established level, like with Fonterutoli; changes were made to make a well-known estate improve.

In the 90s, this estate took it too far with the use of new oak but recently they have had an epiphany (as have many Tuscan producers) over the beauty and differences of each respective village's terroir within the Classico zone. Gone is the hopped-up, heavy-handed, sell-out version that this wine was for too long. The 2015 is here and this has a fat 93-point score from The Wine Spectator. ‘A pure streak of raspberry and peony marks this elegant red, with accents of black pepper, earth, graphite and tobacco. Firm, stretching out on the finish, showing echoes of fruit, earth and mineral. Best from 2019 through 2033. – 93 POINTS – THE WINE SPECTATOR’



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2016 RAFAEL CAMBRA
'EL BON HOMME' RED
$13.99 BTL./$167.88 CASE

From Spain’s Valencia region comes this intriguing blend of two grapes that should not seem to ever be near each other, yet somehow work very well. Grown at 2300 feet, this blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Monastrell (Mourvedre) is quite the surprise and quite the steal for 14-bucks.

Deep, dark and warm spice, smoke, anise, creamy black and blueberries invite you to its layered, rich texture that reveals an impressive heartiness and likability. Extends nicely and really grows on you as the bottle slowly drains. Enjoy this wine with barbecue and yet it would do nicely with a paella or grilled sausages.



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2016 ARALDICA BARBERA D'ASTI
$9.99 BTL./$119.88 CASE

A terrific value from a superb Barbera-specialist that is honest and lacks any pretense…nothing but good drinkin'!

Full of aromas of red cherry, blueberry and flowers setting the stage with some spiced earth and mineral. Authentic, pure and fresh with a round mouthfeel and a vibrant, friendly personality. A super deal for a mere 10 bucks and is one that can be consumed on any day for any occasion - including bacon and eggs in bed! Better yet, have it with roasted fare or tomato-based pasta dishes amongst others because of its masterful versatility.



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2017 PAUL PERNOT MEURSAULT-BLAGNY
PREMIER CRU 'LE PIECE SOUS LE BOIS'
$79.99 BTL./$479.94 - SIX PACK

Based in Puligny-Montrachet, this curmudgeonly producer sells most of his grapes and juice to the likes of Drouhin and Girardin all while keeping the finest bits to be labeled under his own name. Pernot quickly gained recognition in the eighties after his sons convinced him to bottle some of his own wine that promptly garnered recognition and attained "sought-after" status due to the limited production and insane quality. One of the sneaky treasures within the Pernot range is their rather renowned Meursault Premier Cru from Blagny.

This wine from steep slopes with clayey-calcareous subsoils is always strongly marked by its terroir with a mineral and flinty character that is unique for Meursault. The contrast between minerality and classic honey on the nose cannot be overstated. Classic Meursault power aromas are highlighted by telltale spice along with an undercurrent of cashew, buttered toast, honeyed orange and anise. Long fruit flavors with ample structure, nervosity and good length on soar on the very genuine finish. As is always the case with a Paul Pernot wine, give it five years from vintage date then enjoy it through 2030+.



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CHAMPAGNE SUENEN
'CRAMANT + CHOUILLY'
GRAND CRU BLANC DE BLANCS
$59.99 BTL./$719.88 CASE

Having taken over for his father who suddenly passed away in 2009, young Aurelien Suenen has been like a stealth missile on the Champagne scene producing epic bubblies from his small Cramant-based estate. Chardonnay is king at this address with the majority of the land being from the Grands Crus villages of Cramant, Oiry and Chouilly. Only about 1200 cases are produced from these small-holdings and as Aurelien’s star continues to rise, I fully expect these high quality grower Champagnes to attain cult status along the likes of Agrapart, Selosse or Bouchard.

The C + C cuvee is quite a masterpiece. Low dosage is prevalent and the wines have terrific attack. Cramant and Chouilly as villages always lend themselves to having lushness and the bubbles luxuriate and bring a level of finesse to the fang-like structure of the wine. Spreading out on the palate, this bubbly seduces and has a high likability factor. More and more we need to look at Champagne as wine itself and pair with food instead of merely celebrating. This well constructed, terroir-laden fizz will go oh so well with foie gras, lobster, crab or scallops swimming in butter.




FRIDAY SIPS

California Wines from Marietta

This Friday Sept. 6 from 1:30 - 6:30

Founded by Chris Bilbro in 1979, Marietta is a longtime Sonoma stalwart. Now owned and operated by son Scot Bilbro, these wines not only remain excellent values, their quality quotient is even loftier. Drop by this Friday to sample three excellent offerings from this fantastic producer!

FEATURED WINES:

2016 Marietta Zinfandel ‘Angeli’
2015 Marietta Cabernet Sauvignon ‘Arme’
2015 Marietta ‘Christo’ Rhone Blend