7/8/19 The Cellar Door's 'VIVE LA FRANCE' HotSheet

2017 GRAVENNES COTES-DU-RHONE
$11.99 BTL./$143.88 CASE

En Direct! Since this week marks the start of the tour as well as commencing with Bastille Day, we are celebrating all things France. This year, L'Equipe Cellar Door is on their tricycles with baguette, foie gras, cheese and bottles in tow, featuring and following the wine regions of France all week, finish up with a Friday Tasting of Chateauneuf. So grab your smokes and beret and come along on our own Tour de France!

Domaine Des Gravennes, located in Suze-la-Rousse, one the northernmost villages of the Southern Rhone Valley is a family operation run by brothers, Luc and Remi Bayon de Noyer who produce the wine utilizing organic techniques. From the scrumptious 2017 vintage, the blend is a very classic 80% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 5% Mourvedre and the wine is a delectable, over-delivering number for a mere 12-bucks. Mouth filling flavors of pure wild berry, black plum, stony minerality and warm peppery spice. The open knit, round and easy structure makes this the perfect every day drinker red with gumbo, sharp cheese, pizza and lamb in any preparation.

2016 TERRIERE MOULIN-A-VENT
'CUVEE LA LURE'
$19.99 BTL./$239.88 CASE

When visiting France at the end of May it was a real thrill to meet up with our old friend Gregory Barbet and receive a true to form tour of the entire Beaujolais region driving from Cru to Cru. The visit to his Chateau absolutely reaffirms our notion that $18-$25 for top Cru Beaujolais is infinitely more interesting and delivers more value than Pinot Noir from anywhere in the world at the same price.

Sometimes regarded as specialists in Brouilly, the Barbet family has invested wisely in the top Cru of Moulin-a-Vent, which is generally regarded as the apex Cru of this region. Owning just over 8 acres spread over five different lieu dits, what is most important are the shades of granite along with impressive minerality and various limestone and rocks that are interspersed within the sites. The energy of 2016 combined with depth and personality of what these sites deliver has resulted in a magnificent offering. Broad scaled as usual with ironstone, classic blackberry, hints of coffee and pepper; there is plenty of jaunting qualities to this full-on wine. Power with fruit, it shows quite pinote even at this young stage and has lovely inviting qualities. The finish is even more cerebral with mineral and superb length. One of the most food friendly red wines on the planet it may be enjoyed with everything from roasted poultry with mushrooms (of course), to salmon, steak in a classic peppercorn sauce, or cheeses and meats.

2017 REVERDY SANCERRE 'LES COUTES'
$24.99 BTL./$299.88 CASE

One of the superb names of Sancerre, Pascal and Nicolas Reverdy deliver up top-drawer Sancerre that is honest and true to the region. Superb terroir combined with old vines is the secret to this magnificent white wine. The Domaine is based in the tiny hamlet of Maimbray, just outside of the village of Sancerre and in close proximity to Chavignol. This is kimmeridgian soil central within Sancerre, a mix of gray clay laden with white chalk known locally as terre blanche.

Les Coutes is one of the family's single vineyards that is very steep and possessing 50+ year old vines and there is serious intensity to go along with the briskness that one expects from Sancerre. Uncompromising, sultry aromas of flintstone and pronounced, pleasing mandarin along with gooseberry and lemon rapidly grab your attention. Beautiful ripeness and vinous qualities from these old vines combine with lots of cool, snappy crisp tones to form the expansive texture all the way to the drawn out, long finish that shows nervosité that is oh so typical of this renowned growing region. Drink this livewire with halibut, grilled salmon or a fine goat cheese.

2014 CHATEAU LESTAGE-DARQUIER
MOULIS-EN-MEDOC
$19.99 BTL./$239.88 CASE

Now we move on over to Bordeaux and specifically the Medoc. As evidenced earlier by the Fourcas-Borie offering that we sold, one can see that both Listrac and Moulis are emerging on the Bordeaux wine scene. Both of these areas have seen investment from larger Chateaux, however there are plenty of small, outstanding growers in the area. Moulis was made famous by Chateau Chasse-Spleen and over the last two decades, others have been instrumental in this region’s quality and aside from Chasse-Spleen, many are superb values.

A mere 8 hectares and aged in one-third new oak barrels, Francois and Brigitte Bernard are the epitome of the small grower within this region. 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc, this wine somewhat of a dichotomy with its modern and authentic aspects. Fragrant spices combine with gravelly cherry and mineral tones on the nose. Well-structured and with plenty of depth, this is very credible Bordeaux. Drink through 2024.

2017 DOMAINE DES FORGES
ANJOU ROUGE
$9.99 BTL./$119.88 CASE

This wine along with the following are two of France’s most soulful reds that are consumed in local wine bars around the nation.

From the western Loire, specifically Anjou, unoaked red wine adventure made from Cabernet Franc is all about intrigue and pleasure. Laden with red raspberry, warm granitic spice, red licorice and tinges of jasmine, this is absolutely dry, pure and red to the bone. Lots of zing and earth tones abound. Perfect to pair with charcuterie, sausage, paté, steak-frites or slightly chilled with a substantial fish dish.

2015 PINERAIE CAHORS
$13.99 BTL./$167.88 CASE

Founded in the 15th century, Chateau Pineraie has won beaucoup awards from many serious competitions throughout France. The base of this hearty red is 85% Malbec for its deep dark quality and the rest is merlot that brings a smooth suppleness on the palate.

Deep opaque formidable juice with wild scents of red and blue berries, plum, sandalwood, exotic spice and dried mushrooms pour from the glass and into the mouth where it is full and generous with a thoroughly likeable modern twist. Even though there is a toe in this century, this is Cahors and the flavors of this rich land permeate the pure aromas and flavors found this ancient region. The finish is long, lasting and palate staining. This is a whole lotta wine for under 15 bucks! Drink this wine now and over the next 4-5 years with hearty braised and grilled fare.

2016 CHERON VOSNE-ROMANEE
'LES BARREAUX'
$79.99 BTL./$479.94 - SIX PACK

The big buzz for 2016 red Burgundy continues. A few weeks back we featured this producer’s love Gevrey Chambertin and now we are on to his excellent Vosne-Romanee. Philippe Cheron is the epitome of Burgundy. Flying under the radar, this man hit the vineyard lottery when he inherited old vineyards from his grandparents that were leased by other luminous producers. When the leases were up, Philippe reclaimed the sites and we are all the better for it.

Located in quite a respectable neighborhood bordering the Grand Cru of Richebourg and legendary Premier Cru Cros Parentoux. Always performs on a Premier Cru level and should be upgraded IMHO. Spice box, crème de mure, and Italian plum, more and more fragrance as it opens. Potpourri and other exotic spices. Lots of clarity and focus even at a youthful point. Rocky and stony flavors emerge due to the abundance of limestone but the bottom line is the 2016 structure and gorgeous core of fruit. Rich, yet tender, there is a veneer of silk that crawls through the mouth. Energetic, very long and with serious snap back. Hold until 2022 and drink through 2030+.

2016 PILLOT POMMARD
'LES CHARMOTS' PREMIER CRU
$89.99 BTL./$539.94 - SIX PACK

It is a well-known fact that we have had a genuine attraction to Laurent Pillot's wines for many years. We have been working with his white wines since the mid-90s and lately we seem to get even more excited when we taste his red wines.

Part of a movement to bring out the beauty of Pommard in lieu of its once stereotypical hard, bombastic qualities, Laurent Pillot makes wines here that have both stylish aspects to go along with aromatic intensity and beauty as well as never losing substance or depth. 2016 is somewhat of a miraculous vintage for RED Burgundy given all of the challenges and quantity shortages. Across the board, these are lovely, focused wines possessing depth and plenty of potential for aging. The 2016 has an exciting, jumping perfumed nose that penetrates and keeps building in the glass. Blueberry, cherry, rose, mineral and red earth follow through to a youthful, well-structured, debonair palate that spreads out on the palate and then does what a young red Burgundy typically does, packs in and flips you off telling you to come back in 5 years! Very persistent and profound, this is one to lay down in the cellar and open up for a special occasion from 2021 – 2030+.

2017 L'HERITIERS DU COMTE LAFON
VIRE-CLESSE
$46.99 BTL./$563.88 CASE

Owned, operated and made by Meursault Mega Maestro Dominique Lafon, the Heretiers du Comte Lafon Macon wines are some of the rarest and finest of the region. When Lafon commenced his Maconnais operation, it brought prestige to the area and elevated many younger producers to improve the quality of their wines as well. In this case, we can quote one of the greatest TV shows ever, The Wire: ‘The King stay the King’ and we are definitely in the upper echelon of White Burgundy from the Maconnais region.

In 1998, the villages of Vire and Clesse (along with two others in close proximity) were elevated to Appellation status meaning more prestige as well as no longer having to say Macon-Vire or Macon–Clesse. Regulations were tightened, quality has since soared, and Lafon’s version is arguably the top dog. Vire-Clesse’s levels of dryness in the wines are virtually the same as required for Chablis, meaning bone dry. This wine is just that but there is also no shortage of dynamic hedonistic palate-coating richness to go along with the brisk, sweeping qualities. Very mineral indeed with bracing lemon, mandarin and smoke tones. Expansive and electric with penetration and precision. Long, very lasting and with immense potential. Enjoy this prolific and stylish White Burgundy over the next 10-12 years. Let’s face it, if this wine hailed from famous Cote D’Or regions like Meursault or Puligny-Montrachet, the price here would easily be double.

2018 SAINT-SER
COTES-DE-PROVENCE ROSE
$17.99 BTL./$215.88 CASE

Grenache, Mourvedre and Cinsault from limestone soils at the foot of the famous Mont Sainte-Victoire immortalized by Paul Cezanne, this wine takes Rose to another level than just one to sip outdoors on its own.

Directly pressed, sans malo-lactic fermentation, there is not only ample depth and personality, there is lightning in the bottle. Aromatically expressive, illuminating and glowing from the glass, there is an abundance of strawberry, mineral and savory fennel notes along with prominent marine/smoke scents. In the mouth, it is intense, elevated, super-succulent and inviting from start to finish. Drink over the next year with savory fish dishes loaded up with some sort of tomato based salsa.

Bastille Day Friday Sips

CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE

FEATURED WINES:

2016 Galet-des-Papes Chateauneuf-du-Pape Tradition
2016 Galet-des-Papes Vieilles Vignes
2016 Galet-des-Papes Cotes-du-Rhone 'Petite Galet'