Friday Sips

Serralunga-based Guido Porro certainly isn't about flashy self-promotion, here is a man who genuinely loves his vines and the results are in the bottle. Insanely valued for being single vineyard Barolo wines, perhaps the main reason is that Guido is rarely bothered with sending samples to the wine critics, they have to find him. Both this offering and the selection below are from two sub plots of the famed Lazzarito Vineyard, one of Serralunga's great Crus. Both are monopole for Guido, with similar limestone-heavy soils, these are Baroli that age very well and are so different in personality.

The Santa Caterina is the epitome of graceful Nebbiolo. Don't be fooled into thinking this is an early quaffer, there is definitely an abundance of "Serralunga Steel" in this wine and my notes referenced a ballerina in a mosh pit when describing it. Mineral, prominent anise, chinato, almost black rose scents. Ripe, lots of mid-palate presence of depth, firm grip and tannic structure in the house, definitely one will age exquisitely. Will easily carry through and develop for at least another decade

Lazzairasco is separated by a dirt road and is in the lower portion of the Lazzarito amphitheater, protected from the winds above. More masculine and powerful than the Santa Caterina, this wine is sort of a Serralunga anti-hero, a well-dressed bad guy yet very likable.

Still very primary in its personality, the energetic character from limestone is very present with lots of mineral and movement. Dark chocolate, black fruits creep in with underlying scents of porcini, asphalt and mint. Lots of depth and virtual mountainous structure. Serious spine and acidity which cuts into the rich texture. At age 6, this certainly has early appeal but no doubt it will smooth out further and gain more complexity over the next 12+ years.

There are moments when strong terroir transcends and overrides a particular grape varietal. Here is one such example from the Dolcetto grape, but more importantly, it smells like the great Barolo village of Serralunga D'Alba.

Never straying from its varietal roots in the mouth, the nose reveals dark plum, dusty clay, classic Serralunga steely-eyed mineral and camphor notes. More aromatically expressive as it unfolds in the glass, it entices you to do what nature tells one to do with Dolcetto - drink the damn thing!! Mouth-filling and mouthwatering, the 30 year old vines here assert themselves nicely. Depth and detail of place are present, but also so much Dolcetto salvo and snap-back on the above-the-norm finish. Have this wine with salami, sausage, prosciutto, pasta and a bunch of friends.