Friday Sips

The history of St-Joseph wine stretches back to the late 15th century and was originally known as Vin de Mauves. Also mentioned in Victor Hugo's Les Miserables is that the wine was a favorite of the court of Louis XII who happened to own a vineyard called Clos de Tournon. Modern history begins at 1916 and appellation status came in 1956 with the original 6 villages from just above Cornas to just above Tournon-sur-Rhone, across from the Hermitage hill. It has often been stated that one enjoys St-Joseph while waiting for the Cote-Rotie, Hermitage and Cornas to mature. These wines have wonderful aging potential as well but there is also an earlier drinking aspect.

Located in Chateaubourg, a mere 2˝ miles from Cornas and virtually on the 45th Parallel, brothers Laurent and Dominique Courbis can trace their wine roots back to the 16th century. The estate's classic St-Joseph cuvee comes from several plots spread out through their vineyards and the soils are clay, chalk and predominately decomposed granite. With a nose consisting of violets, smoke, and cassis this wine smells so good, you almost don't need to taste it. In the mouth it's nicely balanced with bursting plum and spice, an excellent silky texture and classic, firm acidity along with a fine, smoky finish with persistence that is the product of the superb 2010 vintage. Send me to a desert island with this bottle of Saint-Joe and a nice rack of lamb and I'll be extremely happy. At least until I run out of wine! Drink over the next decade.

In 1971 the appellation of Saint-Joseph was extended from the original 6 villages all the way up to the village of Chavanay which is close to Condrieu and Cote-Rotie. Now encompassing 26 villages, the powers that be capped the appellation in 1994. Given the length of the appellation (35 miles or so) and combined with various microclimates, slopes and soils, the terroirs are vastly different as are the respective wines.

Domaine Etienne Becheras is situated in the central portion of the appellation, specifically in the village of Arras. Polyculture is present at this estate, Etienne grows cherries and apricots on the flat land near the Rhone River and grapes for wine on steep, terraced slopes above the village. At just under 10 acres, this small Domaine is farmed organically and the vines which average just under 40 years of age are in limestone and significant schist and granitic soils. I had the chance to taste this wine for the first time earlier this week and I thought that it had so much Syrah-Soul to it that I ran home to find old Soul Train video cassettes and Earth, Wind & fire vinyl albums! Discreet, harmonious and on the cool side of Syrah, woodsmoke scents along with black raspberry, asphalt, sanguine, leather and freshly-ground pepper, this is essence of Syrah and St-Joseph. No intrusive oaky tones here, just beautiful purity and scents of guttural-sensuality lead into a layered very elegant, high-toned, refined, very food-friendly mouth feel. Grill up some fat pork-chops and watch it sing, or cellar it for 5-7 more and it will go Barry White or Luther Vandross all over ya!

Saint-Joseph is an actual saint, allegedly the protector of scorned husbands, for whom the wine is named after. The only scorn these days would be the mistake of trying to compare these wines to the likes of Australia, California or Washington. Differing soils and slopes are what these wines are all about as well as their cool-climate conditions.

Domaine Faury is situated in Chavanay, the northernmost village of the Saint-Joe appellation. Located a mere 5 miles from Condrieu and 7 from Cote-Rotie, these wines are vastly contrasting from those in the center and southern portions of the appellation. Perfume and aromatics rule the day here. Faury is a producer who specializes in all 3 of the appellations in this area, but the Domaine's Saint-Joseph is of particular interest due to its outstanding price/quality rapport. If we had to describe the wine in one sentence it would best be described as "purity of fruit and earth with minimal influence from oak", but since, I've been known to shoot my mouth off for days about these wines, I will expound. Forward and pretty perfume of smoke, black cherries, and white pepper; in the mouth, it is very clean, and silky with lots of red fruit, high toned briskness, and a finish that fans out nicely, not unlike something from Burgundy, even though it's the Rhone. This is just a plain delicious bottle of wine meant for the table and is perfect with everything from duck, to rabbit, to venison. Chuck in a few olives, and now you are really talking! Drink over the next decade.

Many of yinz know Pascal Marthouet's story from past Cellar Door musings. This is the cat who was a mechanic who happened to fall in love with farming and wine which led to taking over family vineyards. Over the past 2+ years we have been enamored with Pascal's red wines but for the first time we are featuring one of his whites.

Oui, there is white wine in the Saint-Joseph appellation and it is quite delicious. White grapes, specifically Marsanne and Roussanne, account for only 10% of appellation's vines so we never see these wines offered in mass quantity. Marthouet's white is a blend of 60% Marsanne and 40% Roussanne and aged in barrels of which 1/4 are new. Savory aromas that are expressive and aromatic fill the glass. Pineapple, ginger, jasmine, anise and white pepper aspects shine on the nose. Fruit-driven, lovely round core, sneaky mineral with plenty of late-arriving mandarin tones fill the mouth and provide immense palate-pleasure. Very enjoyable over the next 3-4 years, this wine absolutely sings with asparagus dishes, halibut in sauce or seared scallops wrapped in bacon.