Friday Sips

Always a wonderful Syrah, David O'Reilly and crew have really stepped up the quality of Ex Umbris in recent vintages. Way above a mere entry-level northwest Syrah, production actually decreased to obtain the maximum character and profundity of the material of both the grape and the vineyard site. Inspired by the name "Ex umbris et imaginibus in veritatem" (from shadows and symbols goes the truth), the new 2012 is essence of Syrah!

Exciting plum-pepper scents combine with smoked bacon, violet and underlying herbs and exotic spices roll from the glass and follow through to a texture that while deep and penetrating, carries terrific balance and smoky tones throughout. Long and lasting on the finish. We can't say that about the supply, though! Given the accolades for the 2009, 2010 and 2011 and then the rock-star character and hype for 2012, this perennially popular Owen Roe offering will disappear quickly. Drink over the next 6-8 years.

Since its inception in 2005 Waters has been quite the player in Walla Walla and in many ways it has been their Syrah wines that have provided much pleasure. For the Wshington cuvee, winemaker Jamie Brown utilizes fruit from 5 vineyards (Minick Vineyard, Candy Mountain Vineyard, Olsen Estates, and Old Stones Estate) and is aged entirely in neutral French oak barrels so not to compromise the character of the grape or the Washington terroir.

The newly arrived 2012 provides an elixir of earthy, briary raspberry, cherry, and blueberry fruit with hints of smoke, woodland spices and black pepper which shine on the nose and carry over to a texture that is laid-back, cool and with ample depth and persistence. Well-formed and not even close to being a hopped-up juice box, enjoy it over the next 7-9 years.

If anything, Walla Walla superstar Greg Harrington & Gramercy Cellars are all about loyalty. The Lower East wines that he does are not on the winery web site and are virtually not found outside of the Northwest. This level of wines is done to thank longtime supporters in restaurant and retail who have been behind the wines for long periods of time. We have been featuring Gramercy Cellars wines since their first vintage (2005) and our first visit in realizing the prominence that these wines would become and that excellence is maintained to this day. In laymen's terms, these wines are not easy to get your hands on and they are amongst the finest in Walla Walla.

The Southern Blend is a Washington-inspired Chateauneuf-du-Pape-like assemblage of 59% Grenache, 34% Syrah and 7% Cinsault and totally emits aromas that are virtual "strawberries~n~cream" in a glass. More Thai spices, turned earth and hot-rock/peppery aspects come through as it unfolds with air. Classy, sassy, smoky and with an abundance of goodness, this hearty yet silky Washington Rhone blend delivers and invites you back for glass after glass after glass. One more thing, this wine can age a bit, too. Drink over the next 8-10 years.

A passion for Rhône varietals, James and Poppie Mantone settled into Lyle, WA to discover the vineyards along with the potential for these varietals grown in the area's diverse soils. Since the winery's inception in 2001, these wines have taken off and provide very real experiences of what Rhône grapes can achieve in our neighborhood. It also doesn't hurt that they are popular within Portland and Seattle's top restaurants, either.

The Subduction Red is inspired by the likes of what is done in Southern France but done from vineyards in Washington's Horse Heaven Hills Red Mountain and Yakima growing regions. The 2012 is a blend of 28% Mourvedre, 26% Grenache, 23% Syrah, 13% Counoise, 8% Carignan and 2% Cinsault and reveal dark, ripe, dusty fruit scents with coffee and raspberry aspects arriving. Smoky tones creep through and add even more complexity as it opens. On entry, plenty of cushiony fruit and towards the middle, it develops good backbone, freshness, pronounced white pepper and lots of fruit-driven expansion on the finish. Drink now and over the next 3-5 years.