Friday Sips

For years, many have been trying to figure out France's obsession with Jerry Lewis movies. There are those who will now disclaim this saying that the generation is now a generation removed, but we don't believe it. Perhaps it's Jerry's lighthearted and forward way that totally goes against their nature, however, in some twisted way, the French must think that Jerry has as much soul as James Brown, Sly Stone or even Daft Punk for that matter. What Jerry Lewis lacks in soul, the French more than make it up with soulful wines and nothing gets us more excited than underdog wines from off the AutoRoute regions, and the region of Madiran outside of Pau in the Pyrenees is home to a plethora of choices such as this.

With so many great values, we just love the wines of Southwest France around here. Unfortunately there are more than enough merde wines produced to make one have to choose carefully. Humble Madiran is an area that we have written about in the past and here the Tannat grape takes center stage, and let us just tell you, it is one tricky grape because it's like an unruly animal that needs to be tamed, so that it can be shown off. Few manage to be able to do it, but when they do it is something that is real taste of "le vrai France". Recently we tried this excellent new offering from a producer we don't know much about, but who cares because this was one of the coolest Madiran wines that we have had in a long time. Simply smashing, and extremely underpriced for $20. Inky, dark and potent with blackberry, licorice, cooking herbs, and undertones of smoke dominate the nose. Chewy flavors abound in the mouth, with unbridled energy, earth tones, and a tangy, drawn-out finish. A lot of wine for not a lot of money and perfect for drinking with duck, barbecued ribs or a strong blue cheese over the next 4-6 years.

The Australians have a phrase they use called whinging and moaning. Over the years I've been known to push the limits of the Legion Of Decency and since this is a PG-13 Hot Sheet, I won't use the term that I'd really would like to put to use right about now.
There is plenty of whinging and moaning when it comes to prices of Washington wines. So many people regale us with tall-tales of finding Leonetti, DeLille, et.al. for $15 per bottle. At one time this may have been true, but those days are long gone, and they ain't coming back. Sooooo if you want fantastic value red from Washington, you MUST have a go at this one.

Oregon-based but all from Washington fruit, our friend Ed Fus's Zin explodes from the glass with juicy dark raspberry, blueberry, vanilla and spice without being ponderous or bass-heavy. Warm and full bodied on the palate with dark berries and rich spice dominating the long flavorful finish. This is a whole lot o' zin for twenty bucks – drink it with barbecued ribs or pulled pork sandwiches over the next year or two.

Introducing yourself to Lagrein is like a chance meeting with Dracula. Alto Adige's native and probably most famous red varietal is most always sanguine in quality, but don't let it frighten you, its alluring and mouth-coating qualities prove to be one of Italy's most versatile wines.

Gnarly nuances of wild raspberry, roasted coffee, and smoked meat highlight the classic food-friendly texture that is dry but with penetrating fruit. This wine really requires a dish where cheese is involved. Having a fondue party or serving lasagna while watching Mafiosi movies that the Italian-American Anti-Defamation League frowns upon then a bottle of Lagrein is your ticket to the party.

Many a daydreaming afternoon was spent by Roald Dahl as he crafted the wondrous fantasy "Charlie and The Chocolate factory." But what if he had a little inspiration in the form of cheeb, a forty, and a chaser bottle of soulful Vacqueyras? We can only speculate the results, but we're sure the classic book's title may would have undoubtedly been inspired by the seminal P-Funk album, Chocolate City. The Oompa Loompas would have been miniature, freak versions of Bootsy, Mudbone, Maceo and Maggot Brain. There is no doubt that Willy Wonka would be the master himself-the Atomic Dog-George Clinton! Now we don't condone writing while drinking Vacqueyras (Karen usually encourages me, however), the point that I'm getting at is that if you do so, your results will be like the wine and will reach new, delicious, soulful heights.

Le Sang de Cailloux, meaning the blood of the stones is run by Serge Ferigoule who was one of the pioneers who put this Southern Rhone appellation on the map. Combining a commanding, feral, groove-a-licious yet very diplomatic presence, this Grenache based red features a multitude of complex perfumed aromas of exotic spice, lavender, ground pepper, mineral, smoked meat and raspberry dominate the nose. In the mouth, the flavors speak a dialect that is pure Provençal! Layered and with pinnacle intensity, the slightly cooler temperatures of 2011 bring forth nice lift and freshness, especially on the wild, spice-laden finish that seemingly coats the entire palate. Very lovely now and will age well for a decade. Have it with braised venison or lamb shanks.