Friday Sips

The perception of this Walla Walla stalwart is that their primary focus is on Syrah and Rhone varietals but what most don’t know is that Greg Harrington and his Gramercy Cellar operation also put forth very genuine Cabernets that are very true to the land and are certainly not overripe, homogenous caricatures of themselves.

There is a something phantom-like surrounding this wine, mostly because you won’t find it on the Gramercy’s website, tasting facility or much outside the Pacific Northwest. 2012 is one of those Washington vintages where so virtual seamlessness has fallen into place. This is a year with super depth of fruit, uplifting grip and backbone as well as fine detail of origin. The latest Lower East is a magnificent follow-up to previous vintages. This poised and smooth Cab offers seductive and complex aromas of smoked meat, tobacco, and dried porcinis that perfectly intermingle with ripe red berries and spice. Exactly what you think of when you think of a Gramercy Cabernet, silky, chock-full of Washington terroir and screaming for a roasted rib of beef or filet mignon. Drink this beauty over the next decade.

Given all the crazy price jumps for Northern Rhone Syrah it still warms my heart to feature a selection from one of the appellation’s virtual undiscovered gems. The pricing here is also a gift from the strong dollar; it is a few bucks less than the previous vintage!

Saint-Joseph is an actual saint, allegedly the protector of scorned husbands, for whom the wine is named after. The only scorn these days would be the mistake of trying to compare these wines to the likes of Australia, California or Washington. Differing soils and slopes are what these wines are all about as well as their cool-climate conditions. Pascal Marthouret started out as an auto mechanic who happened to fall in love with wine and farming when he started tending his elderly godmother's vines. As he progressed, he was able to get out from under the car and through relatives, established his small 15-acre estate that also includes St-Joseph and Condrieu. The newly arrived 2012 is essence of French Syrah and lovers of this region and grape will find it to be spellbinding. We love to drink wine, but there is something about putting the glass to your nose and just smelling the beauty of an enchanting wine. This is one of those special circumstances! The granite soils play a role in the sheer majestic, velvety quality that this wine possesses. Perfumy and fanciful aromas of plum, smoked meat, mineral, hints of violet and pepper as well. The texture is transparent yet with a shapely core of fruit that is pure and very seductive. Marthouret’s wines have such allure to them when they are young, but one could easily give it a few years for even more dimension. Have this St-Jo over the next 7-9 years with pork loin, roasted chicken jacked with mushrooms or Easter lamb.

Calling all Tuscan, Ital-nuts, or anyone wanting to get an education and to see and taste the wonders of what traditionally made Chianti tastes like. Last year was the first time I worked with this uber-traditional producer's Radda-based Chianti Classico and it was a joy to experience its no-compromising, anti-international, non-Californicated ambience and style.

Old-school, meaning aged in large 2300 and 1600 casks, this wine offers up classic, pure aromas of red berry, underbrush, mineral and a kiss of thyme that lead into a ripe texture that is unadulterated and exudes its Radda terroir immensely. Some wild tannins are present, but are suavely maintained within a sophisticated and harmonious frame. Finishes rather succulent, red and hangs around nicely all while maintaining poise and above all, its essence of place. Drink it now through 2021 with any Tuscan-influenced dish like braised lamb shanks with white beans.

By now, most of our friends know the story of Walter Scott. Since their first vintage, we have been big fans of this producer who has moved from upstart to bonafide Oregon shining star. Back in 2008 when Ken Pahlow and Erica Landon started Walter Scott, a cool focus was placed on Pinot Blanc along with Pinot Noir and they have continued to fine tune and make one of Oregon’s most compelling versions.

I swear we seem to say this every year, but the latest effort is the finest yet!! From three superb vineyard sites, Crannell and Bieze Vineyards in the Eola-Amity appellation and Vojtilla from the Chehalem Mountain district. Brilliant in color with a pale green shimmer, one might think we are talking about new spring couture. Delicate nuances of very fine fruit including apples and peaches sing like a church soloist from the glass. Resounding and clear with well-integrated stony/mineral aspect and subtle, tingling spice on the nose flow into a texture where clean, elegant, zesty flavors prevail with a focused, fresh and mouth-watering finish.

And the envelope, please – Walter Scott’s Pinot Blanc wins the Best Wine So Far in 2015 to go with smoked salmon.