Friday Sips


THE CELLAR DOOR'S "NOT STANDING STILL" HOTSHEET
Nebbiolo, Owen Roe Special, White Burgundy + the first 2010 Brunello & more


2012 OWEN ROE SYRAH 'EX UMBRIS'
[reg. $26.99] SPECIAL PRICE - $19.99 BTL./$239.88 CASE

Always a wonderful Syrah, David O'Reilly and crew have really stepped up the quality of Ex Umbris in recent vintages. Way above a mere entry-level northwest Syrah, production actually decreased to obtain the maximum character and profundity of the material of both the grape and the vineyard site. Inspired by the name "Ex umbris et imaginibus in veritatem" (from shadows and symbols goes the truth), the new 2012 is essence of Syrah!

Exciting plum-pepper scents combine with smoked bacon, violet and underlying herbs and exotic spices roll from the glass and follow through to a texture that while deep and penetrating, carries terrific balance and smoky tones throughout. Long and lasting on the finish. We can't say that about the supply, though! Given the accolades for the 2009, 2010 and 2011 and then the rock-star character and hype for 2012, this perennially popular Owen Roe offering will disappear quickly. Drink over the next 6-8 years.

2013 CIGLIUTI NEBBIOLO LANGHE
$23.99 BTL./$287.88 CASE

Based in Neive, Cigliuti is not only a very prolific, boutique Barbaresco producer, they also happen to be one this Italian region’s most on fire commodities right now.

More than just a mere Nebbiolo, this wine is from a fine cru called Bricco di Neive and combined with the superb 2013 vintage, this expression is quite a killer. Aged in tank and Slavonian barrels, this Nebbiolo is classy from the get-go. Roses, tar, subtle spice and earth tones dominate the nose of this gorgeous offering. More intensity than most Nebbiolo Langhe from the Barbaresco zone, chewy, expressive red fruits assert themselves in the mouth with noticeable structure that tightens its grip at the end. Overall, this shows way above average length, depth and penetration for its price point and has the dimension and structure for aging for 4-7 years. Not much of this has made it into our area so if you like Nebbiolo and a fine value then e-mail us soon.

2012 CANNONBALL MERLOT SONOMA COUNTY
$12.99 BTL./$15.88 CASE

As quoted on Cannonball's web site: "The Cannonball dive is a dive for the people." Owner/winemaker Dennis Hill is striving to make California wines to sell for under 20 bucks and deliver a big splashy WOW factor. Thank goodness that the wine media hasn't caught on to these wines.

An straight-ahead California Merlot, this is the kind of wine that makes those who enjoy this grape really want to drink it because there is no shortage of intensity to go alongside its smoothness. Violets, blueberries, and Chrsitmas spices it is lush, engaging and while accessible on its own, will also carry well to the dinner table. Most importantly, this Merlot is not wispy, or boring but one of delicious character and flavor. A great weeknight diversion red!

2013 JULES TAYLOR GRUNER VELTLINER
$13.99 BTL./$167.88 CASE

A tidal wave occurred within the wine world about 15 years ago with the Gruner Veltliner grape and Austrian wines in general. Sure enough, it spread throughout the world and we have been extremely fortunate to see some wonderful versions done in places other than German-speaking lands.

Jules Taylor is a small Marlborough, New Zealand producer and one in whose wines we will be featuring in upcoming episodes. First on the docket is this lovely, very expressive Gruner. At 13% alcohol, this radiating palate-grabber possesses shifting scents starting with honeysuckle and white pepper and then on to nectarine and crisp granny smith apple. Echoing natural briskness makes this a white wine of surprising complexity. Maintaining blazing freshness and a beautifully textured mouth-feel, it rolls into the finish that has an abundance of range and lingering aspects. Pair with an array of seafood, but have fun with this wine because it will compliment many different types of food and will admirably hold up to spicy dishes..

2009 BODEGAS LEDA 'MAS DE LEDA' CASTILLA Y LEON TINTO
$17.99 BTL./$215.88 CASE

Bodegas Leda is a fine, very exciting project from just outside the Ribera Del Duero. There are two wines produced here, the big wine, which is just called Leda and this inexpensive number that performs way over its head!

Flamenco in a glass, this warm climate, 100% Tempranillo reveals sexy, polished and refined tones of strawberry jam, brown sugar, coriander and intermittent earth tones. In the mouth, it is layered and lacy with excellent depth and personality. Spreads out nicely in the mouth as it moves from front to back; as it opens, the persistent red and black berry qualities shine through exquisitely. The finish is suave, poised and really shows excellent length. Bryan had a bottle a few weeks ago with some grilled sausages and before he knew it, the bottle was gone. Drink it over the next 5 years with meat.

2012 VINCENT PRUNIER ST-AUBIN PREMIER CRU 'SUR LE SENTIER DU CLOS'
$34.99 BTL./$419.88 CASE

The village of St-Aubin is located in a very well to do, respectable neighborhood. Situated next to Chassagne-Montrachet and separated by a set of hills and woods from Puligny-Montrachet, this red and white producing appellation can offer plenty of bang for your buck, especially on the Premier Cru level.

A young estate started by Vincent Prunier in 1988 with 4 acres in Auxey-Duresses. Over the years, Vincent has expanded his holdings to just about 30 acres including land in Puligny-Montrachet, Volnay, Meursault and St-Aubin. This particular French Chardonnay does absolute cartwheels! Sur le Sentier du Clos is a Premier Cru site that sits at a high spot in the village, specifically at 350 meters. Clay soils and a SE facing site allows for fine ripeness, however the elevation and underlying limestone bring about plenty of zest and energy.

Drinking very well right now yet with a spirited future ahead, it displays pineapple, lemon, wet stone and spice tones that follow into a texture that has impressive depth and announces itself as a giant overachiever, especially given its Premier Cru status and its 35-dollar price tag. No doubt, this is a sexy white Burgundy experience, will drink nicely for 4-6 more years and will pair nicely with scallop or chicken dishes.

2012 VINCENT PRUNIER ST-AUBIN PREMIER CRU 'LA CHATENIERE'
$39.99 BTL./$479.88 CASE

The Premier Cru vineyard of La Chateniere is situated in the sweet spot of the appellation and one whose names is a reference to the chestnut trees in the area. The vineyard itself is dominated by chalk soils but at a slightly lower elevation and with SSW exposure puts forth wines of opulence and energy.

Prunier’s version is a full-on steal for the price point. The 2012 La Chateniere shows aspects that Bryan refers to as "stony magnificence" along with an intense lemon and apple tone. An ethereal, finesseful yet luxuriously deep offering that has good attack and poise while showing nice expansion and richness; the finish is very electric and almost cobra-like with its striking capabilities! Awesome juice that should be drunk now through 2022.

2010 COL D'ORCIA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO
$44.99 BTL./$539.88 CASE

Benvenuto Brunello 2010!! As many fans of Montalcino have come to discover, 2010 is a virtually seamless and long-lived vintage for this area and is one that is highly sought-after and rightfully so, this is probably the most profound since 1990. The love for Col D’Orcia’s wines here at The Cellar Door is well known. A few of you who attended our sit-down Seat At The Table Tasting last year with Paolo Tealdi found out just how great they are and how well they age when we opened 1990, 1991 and 1995s. The 2010 is going to out-trump them all with proper age!

Symphonic scents abound but all in a tight ball, the 2010 has traits of the likes of 1999 or 2006 and perhaps even more in that these wines will live for a hell of a long time. A luxurious wine showing red cherry, serious Tuscan herbs, rose, violet and gaining more sotto bosco as it slowly unfolds and teases at its greatness to come. Sexy, lacy entry leads into more expansive flavors that spread out a bit like a great Burgundy would, however, there is an abundance of youthful structure, and should definitely go to the cellar and allowed to become something even more special. We were commenting on the finish 5 minutes after the wine was finished. Mamma Mia! Drink this stylish, profound Brunello 2019 – 2030 and beyond. MAGNUMS AVAILABLE, TOO – INQUIRE!!

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